Kitchen Notes: Rosemary Sourdough Bread

What a time consuming recipe, and I'm not just talking about the sourdough starter (recipe) that I started on Monday. It still had to be mixed into a dough and risen twice, and then baked for an hour. Regardless of its appearance fresh from the oven, the bread smells so good. I want to hack into it now and slather it up with the garlic butter I melted earlier for the artichokes.

Batch #1: Rosemary Sourdough Bread,
Problem: no glossy sheen to the crust
Resolution: oven needs more moisture at 400 degrees F

You know how SF sourdough has that particular crust that kind of looks like it has this magical sheen to it? I need more moisture in the oven. Fortunately, I have procured a spray bottle for the water for the second loaf that I'll get around to attempting tomorrow.

Here's what went into this loaf:

2 c all purpose unbleached flour
1 1/2 c sourdough starter
1 tbsp vital wheat gluten (Bob's Red Mill)
1/4 fresh rosemary leaves, whole and chopped
1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
1 tbsp olive oil (for the bowl that the bread will rise in)
2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted (to brush the top of the loaf before baking)

Mix all the ingredients together except for the olive oil and butter until the dough is elastic and no longer sticks to itself, the mixer, or the bowl. In a stand mixer, this took maybe 10 minutes on a very low speed. Remove dough to an oiled bowl and cover with a plate, kitchen towels, or plastic wrap. Let rise for 1.5 to 2 hours.

While you are doing this next step, preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead it again, this time, shape it into a shape you want to bake it in. I was aiming for a square and got a boule (ball shaped) again. Let this rise a second time for an hour. Score the top with a sharp knife and brush on melted butter.

Baked uncovered in a Dutch oven (Emeril just uses a baking stone or heavy baking sheet) for an hour. It still needs moisture, so use a spray bottle and mist the sides of the oven and the top of the bread maybe every 20 minutes until the bread is done. You are aiming for a chewy, golden brown crust with a spongy, sour bread inside. Misting the oven can help achieve a glossy surface on the loaf.

About that sourdough starter...

I took 1.5 cups of starter out from the jar and replaced it with 1.5 cups of AP flour plus 1.5 cups of warm water (just heat the water in the microwave for 30 seconds in a glass Pyrex measuring cup, it'll be at the perfect temp for the poolish).

The previous night (Friday), I was starting to get concerned about the starter since I hadn't actually been feeding it all week. I added in 1/3 cup warm water and 1/3 cup all purpose flour. I swear my eyes and nose could not tell the difference in the before and after. The starter still had a sour-ish, almost alcoholic smell to it (that's the yeast's byproduct). Most starter recipes will tell you to refrigerate it, well, you could also leave it out on the kitchen counter in a jar covered with a kitchen cloth if it is 50 degrees F outside and damp; inside the house during the day the temp is about 65 degrees F. When you read other people's comments on this particular recipe on AllRecipes with the yeast growing at a ridiculous rate, the ambient temperature of one's kitchen is probably above 70 degrees F.

I have the notion that once the starter successfully ferments, that's when you add in more flour+water to the starter and put it in the refrigerator. As scary as it sounds, the "wild" yeast and bacteria in the starter should be strong enough to fight off any other bacteria from growing. When it can't, like the temperature just isn't kosher for the yeast anymore (like it's too hot), that's when bad things happen (turns pink, smells rotten, grows things other than yeast, etc.) and you have to throw the starter out.

Also, if you think you have a good thing going with your starter, reserve half a cup of it and freeze it. That way if your master batch ever goes wonky, dies, or someone in the household mistakenly tosses the starter, you'll still have some to grow again. You just need to thaw it for 24 hours and add more flour+warm water to it in a glass jar so that it comes alive again; and wait at least three days for it to really get itself going again, or so I've read.

Moroccan Couscous Salad

I thought the prep for this salad was very similar to a quinoa salad, where the couscous is cooked and fresh diced vegetables are added to it, then served up warm or chilled. It's very easy to do. The longest prep time of the recipe is chopping the vegetables. This ingredient ratio is adapted from the Bon Apetit magazine. I served this with the Moroccan Roasted Chicken.

Ingredients

2 c low-sodium, organic chicken broth
8 oz Israeli couscous
1 large red pepper, seeded and diced
1 large carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 English cucumber, unpeeled and diced
1 tbsp ground ginger
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp ground turmeric
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground cumin
grated lemon peel from 1 lemon
juice of 1 medium lemon (2-3 tbsp)

Directions

1. In a 2 or 3 quart pot (with a lid), bring broth and spices to a boil. Add couscous, stir, and turn off heat. Cover with a lid and let it sit for 15-20 minutes, until all the liquid has been absorbed. Fluff with a fork.

2. Add vegetables, lemon juice, and lemon peel to the pot and stir to combine. Transfer couscous salad to a serving dish. Serve warm or chilled.

Quick Preserved Lemon

Preserved lemon is a common ingredient to chutneys and by itself as a condiment. I used this recipe as part of a lemon-onion sauce for some roasted chicken. Bittman of the NY Times food section uses a ratio of 2:1 for sugar to salt. I adjusted the salt down, but it was still too salty in the sauce. The salty-sweet-sour of the lemon is a good flavor though. In retrospect, I'd eliminate the added salt in the chutney recipe.

Ingredients

1 fresh lemon
1 tbsp organic granulated sugar
2 tsp kosher salt

Directions

Wash, halve and de-seed the lemon. Slice lemon into 1/4" dice and put into a glass jar with its juice. Add salt and sugar. Muddle the ingredients together, then cover and refrigerate for a few hours.

Use this in recipes that call for preserved lemon.

Moroccan Roasted Chicken

This, like many in the cuisine, is a multi-step process which involves a fair amount of time for the ingredients to marinate. This batch marinated for a few days in the refrigerator; though it could probably be used as early as the next day. The lemon-onion chutney sauce that goes with it is probably better when eaten in a very hot and dry climate. At 50 degrees F and damp in the Pacific NW in late May, the sauce was far too salty. The original recipe calls for a whole chicken and has a much longer cooking time.

Ingredients for Marinade

8 chicken bone-in, skin-on thighs
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice

Directions

1. Combine all ingredients in a resealable plastic bag or food-safe container. Gently rub the spices with the oil into the chicken. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat oven to 325 degrees F.

2. Line a shallow baking pan with a Silpat mat that will fit inside. Evenly space chicken pieces on the pan. A lot of fat will render out of the chicken skin, but don't worry, this will help the skin really crisp up later. Bake for an hour.

3. Using tongs, gently turn chicken over. It is possible, even with a Silpat, that the chicken will stick to the mat. Return chicken, skin-side up, for another 10-15 minutes, until the skin is very crispy. Remove chicken from baking pan and set in a covered glass dish. Serve hot.

Roasted Fennel and Tomato

One bulb is not enough for more than one person and the while some of the more thinly cut slices were charred instead of caramelizing, it still tasted pretty decent for a side dish. It is sad to see that our state considers this plant to be a noxious weed and prefers to use herbicide to eradicate common fennel than to allow people to harvest it for free. Seriously, all public lands management would need to do is post an alert saying that there's a free vegetable that people can harvest and it would all be picked; of course that would also encourage visitors to pick all the other native plants that managed land and state parks have.

Ingredients

One (or more) fennel bulbs, washed and cored
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 tbsp olive oil + more if needed, for roasting
handful of whole grape or cherry tomatoes
1 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp organic sugar
1 tbsp lemon juice

Directions

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

1. Slice fennel bulb(s) in half and take out the core. Thinly slice the bulb as you would celery or any root vegetable.

2. Toss fennel with garlic, salt, sugar, lemon juice, tomatoes, and olive oil.

3. Arrange fennel in a glass baking dish (I used a 9" x 13") and bake for 30 minutes. Check the oven after 15 minutes and stir the vegetables around.

4. Remove from heat and serve on a plate, as a condiment or side dish for another entree.

Sourdough Starter Batch #1

Hopefully it'll ferment in time to make some loaves for this weekend's BBQ. This particular starter recipe doesn't make you feed it every day. This is fortunate because the slacker in me doesn't want to do that. Instead, the fermentation time is 4-8 days and you need to check the starter for signs that it is not doing well, like the entire mixture turns pink (bad sign! toss it out and start over). You only start to feed the starter once you take a cup of it out for a bread recipe.

Starter Recipe Ratio

1 pkg (2 1/4 tsp) active dry yeast
2 c all purpose unbleached flour
2 c warm water (between 105 and 110 degrees F)

Maintenance Ratio

1 c warm water
1 c all purpose unbleached flour
+ a pinch of sugar

I started the starter in a large wide-mouth glass jar and covered it with a kitchen towel secured by a rubber band. At the moment, it is sitting in a corner of the kitchen counter.

AB Broiled Artichokes

For this dish, broiling is not a good substitute for a grill. The roasting time and amount of heat exposure for the first crop of artichokes this season is too little and too much at the same time. The artichoke certainly takes on a toasted look but even after 8 minutes with the cut-side up and 5 mins on the reverse, the artichokes were still not cooked all the way through. And, despite only having the added flavors of salt, freshly ground black pepper, olive oil and lemon juice; tasters noted hints of nutmeg and Worcestershire sauce. The heart parts were pretty tough. I think steaming or parboiling the chokes before placing them in the broiler would be good for the next time.

Ingredients

2 large globe artichokes, halved with choke removed
up to 1/4 c. olive oil
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
juice of one lemon

Directions

Preheat oven with broiler set on high. (AB's instructions say to just turn the broiler on but the one I'm using has two settings: high and low.)

1. Halve and clean artichokes, taking the thistle (hairy) part of the choke out of the vegetable and trimming off the spiky tops of the top part of the artichoke with a sharp knife. Immediately put the cut artichoke into cold water with some lemon juice to help prevent the artichoke from browning. It really doesn't matter much after you roast it since the ideal color is slightly charred (if grilling) or lightly browned (if broiling/baking).

2. Drain and spin the artichokes dry in a salad spinner. Then put into a large bowl with olive oil, salt, and black pepper.

3. Place artichokes on a Silpat-lined or greased baking tray and place in the oven for 5-6 minutes, then flip over for an additional 3 minutes. 

4. Remove from heat and eat.

Roasted Tomato Basil Soup

By the name of the recipe, you'd think that basil was the only herb that goes into this soup. There are certainly quite a few strong flavors in this batch, notwithstanding the crab stock I used in lieu of chicken stock. At the moment it is simmering on the stove and looks quite normal. Hope it tastes okay. I'll just have to wait and see if anyone notices that crab stock was used or if anyone can tell. When I made butternut squash soup the other day with crab stock, I couldn't tell the difference. Original recipe ratio is from Ina Garten's The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook; what lies below is close to but not really. It reflects ingredients that I had on hand. This version is not vegetarian.

Ingredients

1 quart of crab stock (can substitute with chicken broth, vegetable broth)
1-2 cups of fresh basil leaves, whole
2 large beefsteak tomatoes, diced
6 medium roma tomatoes, diced
1 (14 oz) can of organic diced tomatoes
1/2 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
small fresh basil leaves, to garnish
1/4 tsp red pepper flakes ( don't know what this really is, so I used chili pepper flakes)
1/2 tsp dried thyme or 1 tsp fresh thyme
olive oil, for roasting the tomatoes
sea salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/4 c organic heavy cream, optional
pinch of baking soda and/or sugar to balance the acidity of the tomatoes (optional)

Directions

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

1. In a 9" x 13" glass baking dish, arrange tomatoes cut-side down in a single layer. Drizzle a fair amount (up to 1/4 cup) of good quality olive oil on top and sprinkle with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bake for 40 minutes. It's okay if the skins get charred, that's what it means to roast a vegetable.

2. While the tomatoes are roasting... In an 8-quart heavy-bottomed pot, add olive oil, butter, red pepper flakes, garlic and onions. Let the onions sweat for at least 10 minutes over medium heat. It's okay if the onions start to caramelize, that will add a nutty-sweet taste to the soup.

3. Add the tomatoes and stock and bring to a boil. Let simmer uncovered for 40 minutes.

4. If you want to see some texture in this soup, take out the basil leaves before taking an immersion blender to the soup; otherwise, it'll just be green bits of something in the soup. This can be served hot or cold; except if you are having dinner guests, I don't advise making this soup 1-2 hours before they arrive since the soup will not chill properly if serving it up cold.

Blend soup until smooth. The soup still tasted acidic after the tiny bit of sugar and baking soda that I added. I also added some heavy cream and blended that in before serving.

5. Serve the soup in bowls and garnish with fresh basil.

Broiled Basil Chicken

This chicken entree was supposed to have more Thai flavor. The key ingredient of real Thai basil was the missing flavor essence from the marinade. I used boneless, skinless organic chicken thighs for this dish. I suppose you could use other cuts of poultry, and the cook times will be different. Better Homes and Gardens has an easy to use time table by cut for broiling.

broiled basil chicken, hot from the oven

As far as meal prep goes, this one is pretty simple if you have all the ingredients on hand. I used a large resealable container to marinade the chicken.

Ingredients

6 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1/4 chopped fresh basil, preferably Thai basil
1 tbsp fresh ginger, peeled and minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tsp (up to 1 tbsp) chili sauce (I used a basic sirracha sauce)
1 tbsp light soy sauce
1 tbsp fish sauce
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp brown sugar

Directions

0. Combine all ingredients together in a resealable container and marinade for at least an hour, several hours, or overnight.

1. Place chicken on a broiling pan, or a lightly greased baking pan if you don't have a broiling pan.

2. If you need to move oven racks so that the meat is about five inches from the flame (if using a gas oven), you should do so now before turning the broiler on.

3. Let the oven heat up. Most modern ovens will tell you when the temperature is right. I have never measured the ambient oven heat when using the broiler, so the only test for doneness is by using a meat thermometer and checking the thickest part of the meat. Internal temp for thighs should be 180 degrees F, for breasts it is 170 degrees F, and for patties it is 165 degrees F. Keep in mind that the chicken will continue to cook after you remove it from the oven.

4. Broil chicken thighs for 20 minutes total, 10 minutes each side. Remove from heat and serve with hot steamed rice.

Dungeness Crab Cheesecake

This is a savory cheesecake and will be served up with some crackers as an appetizer. It is the same baking process as a dessert cheesecake, except this one is made without a water bath. Frankly, I think the only reason to bake it is so that the eggs get cooked; otherwise, everything else that went into the recipe can be eaten as is. This recipe ratio, minus the onions, is adaapted from the 1999 issue of Taste of Home. I baked this one in a 9" springform pan, like the one used for cakes. For the crab part of the recipe, I steamed a dungeness crab the previous night and reserved the meat.

Dungeness Crab Cheesecake. Looks a little boring.
Tastes like it desperately needs a contrasting flavor or
roasted red peppers added to it.

On the seafood seasoning, you could just use Old Bay seasoning; though in lieu of that, this is what goes into it: celery seed (adds a savory depth to meat rubs), black pepper (spicy), bay leaves (savory), cardamom pods (sweet & spicy), mustard seeds (savory), whole cloves (sweet & spicy), sweet paprika (mild & sweet, mostly for color) and ground mace (sweet).

[edit] This came out tasting terribly bland, like it was just cream cheese mixed with crab. To bring out the flavor more, perhaps next time add in a cup of shredded smoked gouda or fry some red/green/yellow/orange small diced bell peppers into it for color contrasts.

Ingredients

16 oz cream cheese, softened

3 oz sour cream

1 c crushed butter crackers + 1/4 c melted unsalted butter

1 c cooked dungeness crab meat, flaked

3 eggs lightly beaten

1 tsp lemon juice

1/4 tsp seafood seasoning (I used ground mace, smoked paprika, pinch of ground cloves)

dash of chili sauce (like a sirracha or Tabasco sauce)

freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

1. In a small bowl, combine lemon juice, seafood seasoning, and chili sauce. Set aside.

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine cream cheese and sour cream. Beat together until smooth. Add in lightly beaten eggs, lemon juice, seafood seasoning, chili sauce and some freshly ground black pepper. Blend until smooth-ish.

3. Take 25-30 round butter crackers (like Ritz or Trader Joe's) and crush them with your hands, in a food prep, or in a sealable plastic bag with a bottle or rubber mallet. You could also substitute panko crumbs in this step, I suppose. Mix the cracker crumbs with melted butter and gently press into the bottom of a buttered springform cake pan.

4. Bake cracker crust for 10 minutes, remove from oven and turn oven heat down to 325 degrees F.

5. Pour cream cheese mixture into the prepared cake pan and use a spatula to spread the filling evenly. Bake for 35 minutes, until center has set.

6. Remove from oven and let cool for 30 minutes. Use a butter knife to loosen the cheesecake from the edge of the pan. Cover with plastic wrap and let refrigerate for an hour or more before serving.

Serve with freshly made bread or crackers.

Clams with Black Bean Sauce (and Fresh Basil)

I've seen this dish served up both ways, with fresh basil and without. It tastes pretty good either way when clams are in season. In this region, Manilla clams are both farm grown and local to the Puget Sound. These clams come from the Hama Hama river delta. Wash the clams in cold water and scrub the shells with a stiff brush before using. This helps to release any dirt in and on the clams.

Clams with Black Bean Sauce and Fresh Basil

Ingredients

2-3 tbsp olive oil
2 large garlic cloves, chopped
1 tbsp fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
1 large whole scallion, chopped
1 tbsp fermented black beans, coarsely chopped
1 tbsp light soy sauce
2 tbsp dry sherry (or Shaoxing rice cooking wine)
1/4 c fresh basil, sliced into 1/4" thin strips
1/2 tsp granulated sugar
1/2 c water
1 tbsp cornstarch dissolved in water.

Directions

1. In a small prep bowl, combine garlic, ginger and scallions. In a separate prep bowl, have lightly chopped fermented black beans. In a third prep bowl, combine soy sauce, sherry, and sugar. In the fourth prep bowl, combine cornstarch with enough water to dissolve the powder. Set aside until ready to cook.

2. Heat a wok or large heavy skillet (with a lid) over high heat until hot; add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Toss in the garlic, ginger, scallions and black beans; stir rapidly so the garlic does not burn. Add the clams and stir for about a minute. Sprinkle in soy sauce sherry, and sugar mixture; then pour in the water. Cover and let the clams cook for five minutes, until all the clams have opened.

3. Uncover the wok and pour in the cornstarch water. Stir the sauce around and the sauce will thicken. Last, add in the fresh basil and give it a stir. Scoop the clams and the sauce into a serving dish.