Hatch Chile Salsa, Batch #1

This is the second time making it and first time actually committing the ratio to paper.. err digital cookbook journal. The first time was last year and it was delicious. This batch is really the second batch of tomato salsa for this summer.

A note about roasting fresh peppers. I started with 2 lbs fresh hatch chile peppers; but after processing them by roasting, peeling, removing the stem and discarding the seeds, I had 14.25 oz left. And, this is fine.

A common substitution for Hatch chiles is Anaheim,
and after roasting these Hatch chiles I really can't tell the difference.

This summer I've made 3 batches of salsa so far with different ingredient ratios. Batches #1 and #3 are essentially the same; the red chile pepper got swapped with Anaheim chiles in #3.

Batch #1, main heat ingredients - jalapenos (8), red chile pepper (1)
Batch #2, main heat ingredients - hatch chiles (2 lbs)
Batch #3, main heat ingredients - jalapenos (8), Anaheim chiles (5)

TheFoodening Blog - Hatch Chile Salsa

Batch #2 Ingredients

5 lb red tomatoes, roasted and peeled
1 head garlic cloves, roasted, peeled, chopped
4 tbsp fresh lime juice
2 lb (14.25 oz) prepared hatch chile peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded
1/2 bunch of fresh cilantro, stems removed and chopped
1 tbsp kosher salt

Directions

1. In a large stockpot, bring tomatoes, garlic, chile peppers, lime juice, and salt to a boil; then simmer over medium heat to reduce the water content. You want salsa that can stay on a chip, not fall off like a soupy mess.

I let the water boil off for roughly 1.5 hrs; then got bored and used a mesh strainer to get more of the solids out into the jar.

2. Turn off heat and stir in cilantro. 

3. Fill sterilized glass jars and process in a hot water bath for 20 minutes.

Makes 5 pints.

Homemade Harissa

Ever since I read Marcus Samuelsson's cookbooks Yes, Chef and Marcus Off Duty, I've come to respect the preparation and style of cuisine that includes ingredients such as teff (used to make fermented injera bread) or harissa (an African spice paste made from fresh or dried chiles).

Harissa made from dried chiles is not hard to make; though if you want to live vicariously, you can de-stem and unseed the chile pods before soaking them in hot water. The suggested chili ratio comes from Smitten Kitchen. When I was collecting dried chiles for this recipe, I just got whatever the store had -and- I had to check several local stores for them. I'm not a big fan of spicy hot foods; though damp and/or humid Pacific Northwest weather is often a good combination to spice things up.

As a spicy condiment, use it where you'd use ketchup or other savory sauces.

Makes: 2.5 cups

The Foodening Blog: Making Harissa

Ingredients

2 oz dried negro chiles
1 oz dried California red chiles
1 oz dried ancho chiles
2.5 oz sun dried tomatoes (not packed in oil)
1 large red bell pepper, roasted and skinned, stem and seeds removed
2-3 garlic cloves, minced
3/4 tsp ground coriander or 1.5 tsp whole coriander seeds
1/2 tsp ground caraway or 1 tsp caraway seeds
1/2 tsp ground cumin or 1 tsp cumin seeds
1/2 tsp kosher sea salt
1 tbsp olive oil, plus more for storage

Directions

0. Preheat oven to 350 F and roast a red bell pepper for about an hour. You could rotate the bell pepper every 15 minutes, but I've found this is a waste of time.

1. In a small cast-iron pan, toast whole coriander seeds, caraway seeds, and salt together over medium heat (1-2 minutes, or until coriander seeds become lightly browned). Transfer salt and spices to a coffee grinder and grind into a powder. Set aside until ready to use.

Don't just eyeball chiles by what you think they weigh. Use a digital scale and measure them as their dried de-stemmed weight. Then unseed the pods.

2. In a large 2-quart (or larger) metal or glass bowl, add dried tomatoes and dried chiles. Pour boiling water on top and let sit for 30 minutes or more until the items have rehydrated.

Use a colander to drain out the excess water.

3. In the bowl of a food processor, combine red bell pepper, tomatoes, chiles, spice blend, garlic and olive oil. Pulse until it looks pureed.

4. Transfer paste to a clean glass jar and top with olive oil. Store in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Sweet Chili Paste (La Jiao Jiang)

This is an ingredient I didn't have in the pantry. As long as you have a sharp knife, a mortar and pestle or a food processor, the recipe is easy to do. The heat of your peppers determines the heat of the paste. I used red jalapenos because they were the only hot red peppers available in my area, aside from Thai chili peppers which I didn't want to use for this recipe. My biggest complaint about Asian condiments are that I might use them a few times a year and the jar takes up prime real estate in the fridge. By making condiments in smaller batches, not only is it fresher tasting but also there are no preservatives.

The Foodening Blog: chopped red chiles

Store it in a glass jar. Keeps for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator.

Related recipes: Sweet Chili Shrimp

Ingredients

3-5 hot red peppers
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tbsp olive oil (optional)
pinch of salt
1 tsp rice vinegar

Directions

1. Remove the stem from the peppers and discard. Roughly chop the peppers into smaller pieces. Then chop in a food processor with the garlic, salt and vinegar.

2. (optional) In a small saucepan, heat olive oil over low-medium heat and add the peppers and garlic. Cook on low heat for 20 minutes. Let cool before using or storing in a jar.

The Foodening Blog: red chili paste, nearly done

Homemade Catsup, Ketchup, that red condiment..

One of my new years' resolutions for my pantry was to not buy something I could readily make with ingredients on hand. Fortunately for me, I don't own a deep fryer.. so I can still buy those sweet Maui onion chips. The downside to making these condiments from scratch is not knowing its shelf life. The condiments that I used to buy from Trader Joe's stay fresh for an epic long time in the refrigerator.

I have this stored in a lidded 2-cup glass container. It is spicier than most store bought ketchups because of the chili flakes, but it is quite tasty. I made this batch to be the base for a cocktail sauce for a shrimp appetizer.

Yield: 2 cups

Ingredients

One 12 oz can of organic tomato paste
6 oz filtered water
4 tbsp white wine vinegar
1/2 c brown sugar
1/2 tsp dry ground mustard
1/2 tsp sea salt
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp garlic powder
a couple pinches of ground clove and ground allspice
one pinch of ground chili flakes (the kind that is used with asian cuisine)

Directions

1. Start by whisking the water and brown sugar together, making sure that the sugar dissolves completely before adding the rest of the ingredients.

2. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Estimated shelf life: up to a month.

Quick Pickled Sliced Jalapenos

This recipe is easy to make and the stinky cloud of jalapenos dissipates quickly if you open the window or turn the fan on. I first had these on top of Indian fry bread at a local event just recently and they were pretty darn good. I also found that if you hold the jalapeno by the stem, it's much easier to slice into rings. This batch made 1.5 pints because I used more than 10 green jalapenos.

Makes: 1 pint

Ingredients

3/4 c water
3/4 c distilled white vinegar
3 tbsp organic granulated sugar
1 tbsp sea salt
1 garlic clove, crushed
1/2 tsp dried oregano
10 large jalapeno peppers, sliced into rings

Directions

1. In a medium-sized saucepan, combine water, vinegar, sugar, salt, garlic, and oregano and bring to a boil.

2. Stir in peppers and remove from heat. Let cool for 10 minutes before packing into clean glass jars. Use tongs to pack the peppers in, then pour the pickling liquid on top.

3. Refrigerate until needed.

Quick Preserved Lemon

Preserved lemon is a common ingredient to chutneys and by itself as a condiment. I used this recipe as part of a lemon-onion sauce for some roasted chicken. Bittman of the NY Times food section uses a ratio of 2:1 for sugar to salt. I adjusted the salt down, but it was still too salty in the sauce. The salty-sweet-sour of the lemon is a good flavor though. In retrospect, I'd eliminate the added salt in the chutney recipe.

Ingredients

1 fresh lemon
1 tbsp organic granulated sugar
2 tsp kosher salt

Directions

Wash, halve and de-seed the lemon. Slice lemon into 1/4" dice and put into a glass jar with its juice. Add salt and sugar. Muddle the ingredients together, then cover and refrigerate for a few hours.

Use this in recipes that call for preserved lemon.

Apple Compote

This was made as part of a larger dessert, brown butter hazelnut cake (Smitten Kitchen recipe); which I had the opportunity of tasting at Trellis. This looks a lot like the process for apple sauce, except with a lot more water.

Ingredients

2 cups water
1/3 cup sugar
1/2 vanilla bean, split in half
1 tablespoon brandy
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
Pinch salt
6 Gravenstein apples, peeled, cored, and diced

Directions

In a large saucepan, combine water, sugar, vanilla bean, brandy, spices and salt. Bring to a boil, about 5 minutes, until the sugar has dissolved. Add the apples and simmer for 20 minutes until the apples are tender. It's okay if the apples start to disintegrate upon cooling. Let mixture cool to room temperature and remove vanilla bean halves. The mixture will thicken slightly as it cools.

Makes 12 half-cup servings.

Sour Cream and Green Onion Dip, No Mayonnaise

I'm pretty sure Alton Brown adds mayonnaise to his version of this dip to put in an extra zing to it, but that style is just not for me. This recipe is from the New York Times and I added garlic powder to it because I like garlic. I'm sure you could just as well stir in some roasted garlic too, but that may overpower the onion element to the dip. For this batch, I used Darigold natural sour cream.

Ingredients

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
3-4 stalks green onions, minced
1 c. sour cream
1/2 tsp sea salt, or more to taste
1/2 tsp garlic powder

Directions

1. In a small pot, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onions, salt, and garlic powder and stir until green part of onion turns bright green. Continue stirring for 2-3 minutes so the onions don't burn. If you're using ordinary white onions, you could cook the onions until they turn translucent. You could even caramelize the onions too if you wanted. It makes no difference in the recipe. Remove from heat, and strain oil out to another container for later use (later as in, not used in this recipe).

2. To a cup of sour cream, mix in green onion mixture until the onions are evenly distributed. Taste. If it isn't salty enough, add a little more salt. Cover the container the dip is in and store in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes so that the onion/garlic flavor permeates the sour cream.

3. Serve with fresh vegetables (carrots, cucumbers, broccoli, etc) or chips.

Sun-dried tomato spread

Made this one up as I was adding ingredients to a mini food prep. Some days I just want to eat chicken cold cuts with a sauce other than the one that soy sauce-based one I normally use. I used a lightly seasoned rice wine vinegar because it's not as sharp-tasting as balsamic vinegar. Anyhow, this came out tasting really good and now I'm finishing it off with those multi-seed flatbread crackers from Trader Joe's.

Ingredients

4 tbsp sun-dried tomatoes packed in olive oil
1 tbsp seasoned rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
fresh thyme leaves (1 sprig)
fresh rosemary leaves (about 1 tsp)

Directions

In a mini foodprep, pulse together all ingredients until tomatoes are finely chopped and blended.

Sun-dried tomato pesto

Rather than buy the $2.99 container of this stuff from Trader Joe's. I thought I'd try to make it since I already had all the ingredients listed on TJ's container label. After making this batch with grated Parmesan cheese, I think that the cheese is unnecessary. A large clove a garlic is too much of a garlic taste for one cup of pesto. This batch of the pesto came out pretty strong tasting. I wanted to eat it with lavash bread. If you like more basil in spreads like this, then use more basil. I used some basil leaves from a house plant I grew from seed this summer. 

Optionals:

If you omit the cheese, the recipe is vegan-friendly.
If you enjoy nut flavors, pine nuts or walnuts are often combined with a tomato-based pesto.

Ingredients

1/4 c. sun-dried tomatoes packed in olive oil
1 medium garlic clove
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp EVOO
basil leaves, up to 1/2 cup packed (to taste)
2 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese (optional)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper (optional, to taste)

Directions

1. In a food prep, blend together sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and fresh basil leaves.

2. Mix in grated cheese and serve. Makes 1 cup.

Usage: Combine with cooked pasta, as a cracker or flatbread spread, with cooked eggs, or in place of mustard/mayo on a sandwich.

Ginger Sugar, Candied Ginger, and Ginger Syrup

At different stages of this recipe, you can make everything in the title of this post. I got the idea from reading Alton Brown's candied ginger recipe. Today was just a test batch, so I used a pretty small amount of fresh ginger. I don't have a digital food scale, so the amount of ginger used is just an approximation. You can save the peeled ginger skin to flavor broths and steam shellfish and/or seafood, like fish and crab.

Ingredients

1/4 pounds of fresh ginger, peeled
1/2 c. organic granulated sugar
1/2 c. filtered water

Directions

I recommend this order of operations because you can see how much water is really needed to make the syrup. Alton's method would have you use equal portions of ginger, water, and sugar. But I'm not comfortable with boiling such a small quantity of ginger for so long in so little water.

1. Slice the peeled ginger slightly larger than 1/8" and less than 1/4" thick. I found that 1/8" thick slices come out really small after the cooking process.

2. In a small pot, add ginger slices and sugar. Then add the water.

3. Bring to a boil and stir frequently. Let simmer for 20 minutes or until the water has nearly evaporated and the ginger is tender.

When the liquid has reduced by half, the ginger syrup is ready to be put into other sauces, on top of breads, or on ice cream.

4. Carefully remove the ginger to a drying rack that has been placed over a pie dish or parchment paper-lined baking tray. This will catch the residual ginger syrup which will eventually crystallize into sugar.

5. Let the ginger cool, then store in an airtight container for a couple weeks.

6. The scrape out the leftover syrup/sugar from the pot and let it dry on the same rack. As the water evaporates, what you'll have left is ginger-flavored sugar. This can be mixed in with more sugar, if you like. Store the ginger sugar in a separate airtight container. This, like vanilla sugar, keeps for quite a while in the pantry.

Pickled Ginger

Ever buy a stub of fresh ginger from the grocery store and end up using it in just one or two dishes, then look in horror as it gets all shriveled in the fridge or on the counter by the garlic? Well, here is a way to add another month of life to the ginger. At sushi restaurants, I used to nibble on the pickled ginger with a bit of wasabi mustard and some soy sauce, though not as a palate cleanser, but simply to eat it. I haven't been able to slice it thin enough at home to replicate the ginger you get at the store or restaurant. Maybe I need a much sharper knife than the RADA knife I picked up last year. I am avoiding artificial colorants. The pink tinge can be added naturally by boiling a small red beet with the vinegar before adding the ginger to the pickling liquid.

Another way to keep the essence of ginger around is to peel the fresh ginger root and slice it into long, thin matchsticks. Then dry the ginger and keep it as a dried spice in a glass jar. I've found this also works pretty well when cooking up clear broths, steaming seafood, and to add to meat-based stews when I've run out of fresh ginger. Nothing tastes quite like fresh ginger and the flavor is far more mild after it's been dried.

At some point I would like to procure a small ceramic ginger grater. I saw it once at the Portland Home & Garden show a couple years ago, and now I can't find it anywhere. It's used in Asian cuisine a lot to get fresh ginger juice from grated ginger. Onto the recipe...

Ingredients

1/2 lb fresh ginger root, peeled and thinly sliced
1/3 c. rice vinegar
2 tbsp cooking mirin
2 tbsp sake (dry and of drinking quality, but not fusion-flavored or carbonated)
2 tbsp organic granulated sugar or brown sugar

Directions

1. Scrub the ginger under water with a mushroom brush or the rough side of a sponge to remove all the dirt. Blanch it in boiling water for a minute or so, then drain.

2. Combine the cooking mirin, sake, and sugar in a small pot and bring it to a boil until the sugar dissolves. To alter the natural beige color of the ginger to a pinkish color, you could add a small red beet in this step. Let cool.

3. In a clean, sterilized jar add the ginger and pour the vinegar over the ginger. Cover the jar and use the ginger within a week, or up to a month if kept in a refrigerator.

Spicy Dipping Sauce

A tasty sauce that is good warm or cold, for hot or cold appetizers. This sauce is typically used with a Chinese chicken recipe called Bai-zhan gi (or cut white chicken).

Ingredients

2 stalks green onions, finely chopped
3 slices of ginger, peeled and minced
3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
1 small dried hot pepper with seeds removed
2 tbsp red wine or rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp water dash of salt (optional)
1 tbsp sesame oil

Directions

1. In a small sauce pan, heat oil until it just begins to pop. Add ginger, garlic, green onions, and hot pepper. Stir until lightly browned. Simmer on low-medium. Do not let the ingredients burn.

2. In a small bowl combine vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, and water. Add this combination to the sauce pan.

3. Add sesame oil and bring to a boil. Remove from heat.