Ginger Sugar, Candied Ginger, and Ginger Syrup

At different stages of this recipe, you can make everything in the title of this post. I got the idea from reading Alton Brown's candied ginger recipe. Today was just a test batch, so I used a pretty small amount of fresh ginger. I don't have a digital food scale, so the amount of ginger used is just an approximation. You can save the peeled ginger skin to flavor broths and steam shellfish and/or seafood, like fish and crab.

Ingredients

1/4 pounds of fresh ginger, peeled
1/2 c. organic granulated sugar
1/2 c. filtered water

Directions

I recommend this order of operations because you can see how much water is really needed to make the syrup. Alton's method would have you use equal portions of ginger, water, and sugar. But I'm not comfortable with boiling such a small quantity of ginger for so long in so little water.

1. Slice the peeled ginger slightly larger than 1/8" and less than 1/4" thick. I found that 1/8" thick slices come out really small after the cooking process.

2. In a small pot, add ginger slices and sugar. Then add the water.

3. Bring to a boil and stir frequently. Let simmer for 20 minutes or until the water has nearly evaporated and the ginger is tender.

When the liquid has reduced by half, the ginger syrup is ready to be put into other sauces, on top of breads, or on ice cream.

4. Carefully remove the ginger to a drying rack that has been placed over a pie dish or parchment paper-lined baking tray. This will catch the residual ginger syrup which will eventually crystallize into sugar.

5. Let the ginger cool, then store in an airtight container for a couple weeks.

6. The scrape out the leftover syrup/sugar from the pot and let it dry on the same rack. As the water evaporates, what you'll have left is ginger-flavored sugar. This can be mixed in with more sugar, if you like. Store the ginger sugar in a separate airtight container. This, like vanilla sugar, keeps for quite a while in the pantry.

Pear Cobbler

Pears are probably my favorite winter time fruit after the apple. My favorite pear is the Bartlett because it is firm, crisp and very sweet; though they are too firm to be used in desserts or other cooked recipes. Pears can be eaten right off the core, baked into pies and cobblers, made into a chutney, soup, or turned into jam. If you store the fruits well, they'll keep for several months in the refrigerator. I store apples and pears in the fridge in the same plastic bag they came in, except I press out as much air as I can and spin the bag so that the opening is closed at the top. Even though aging fruit gives off nitrogen, what makes them rot faster in the fridge is the exposure to moisture and oxygen.

This is a simple pear cobbler recipe. If you would like to add a variety of other colors and textures, then up to 1/4 unsweetened dried cranberries or raisins, raw or lightly toasted pumpkin seeds can be added to the filling or the streusel-like topping. If you don't care what color the pears are after baking, you may add lemon juice to the pears

Ingredients

2-3 lbs ripe anjou pears, chopped into 1/2" slices
up to 2 tbsp organic granulated sugar
1 tsp nutmeg
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice (optional)

1/4 c. brown sugar
1 c. old fashioned rolled oats
1/3 c. all-purpose unbleached flour
1/4 c. unsalted butter, softened or cut into chunks

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Directions

1.  In a large bowl, combine chopped pears, granulated sugar, nutmeg, and optional items. Mix well so that the pears are evenly coated with sugar and spice and everything nice.

2. In another bowl, combine oats, flour, butter, and brown sugar. Cut the butter into the flour so that it resembles coarse crumbs, or something.

3. In an 8" x 8" baking pan, add pear mixture and top with the oat mixture.

4. Bake in a pre-heated oven for 30 minutes.

Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream

It was debatable between Martha Stewart's or Alton Brown's recipe for this, about which method to use. Frankly, while the number of eggs I would have to sacrifice for a quart of delicious ice cream would be about the same, Alton Brown's would have had me hatch open a jar of peach preserves for two tablespoons of the stuff. The closest to preserves (not jam) that I have is peach marmalade which I picked up from Portland Nursery's apple tasting event last fall. While I am tempted to make the AB version, it wouldn't couple well with other uses of ice cream such as in rootbeer floats or ice cream sandwiches. And, the way June is looking at the moment (very cold and wet), it doesn't look like there'll be locally grown peaches at the farmer's markets any time soon.

Since I wasn't about to sacrifice two beans for this, I used one vanilla bean plus one tablespoon of vanilla extract. Also, refrigerating the "custard" overnight didn't seem to make the ice cream churn any faster in the ice cream maker. Leftover egg whites freeze really well and can be used later in other recipes.

Don't toss the vanilla bean pod parts after you finish making the cream base. Wash the bean pod clean and set aside to air dry. When the pod is completely dry, immerse it into honey or sugar to make vanilla honey or vanilla sugar.

Ingredients

1 vanilla bean
2 c. whole milk, chilled
6 egg yolks
3/4 c. organic granulated sugar
2 c. heavy cream
1 tbsp vanilla extract

Directions

1. Pour milk and cream into a heavy-bottomed pot. Split the vanilla bean down the middle and use a knife blade to scrape out the tiny black seeds. Add the seeds and the pod to the milk/cream mixture. Bring to a boil then turn off heat and let the pod steep for 30 minutes.

2. In a large bowl, beat egg yolks and sugar until the yolks become thick and pale yellow.

3. Temper the egg mixture by gradually adding 1/4 cup of the hot cream and whisk to combine. Repeat until the cream mixture is thoroughly incorporated into the egg mixture. Whisking or beating with an electric mixer with a balloon whisk attachment.

4. Pour liquid back into the pot and heat until it thickens. When the liquid is able to coat the back of a spoon, turn off the heat and let cool on the stove.

5. Using a fine mesh sieve, pour the cream mixture into a container large enough to accommodate it all. Cover and let chill in the refrigerator until the liquid temperature is 40 degrees F, or chill overnight.

6. Freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions.

The Spice Route by John Keay

"The human body needs minerals, notably salt; but pepper, the most substantially traded of all spices, is a dietary irrelevance. One might live a perfectly healthy life without ever ingesting, inhaling or otherwise being exposed to any one of the desiccated bits of vegatation that have traditionally been considered spices. Nor are they addictive in any physiological sense. The withdrawal symptoms might be evinced at times of scarcity were purely social and economic."

Blueberry Sorbet

With less than two months until peak blueberry picking season, I managed to turn about half of my frozen cache into a tasty dessert. This would be a delightful alternative to ice cream if the gods of global warming would turn on the sun this weekend. I don't own a blender, so I used a 7-cup Cuisinart food prep for this and I didn't bother straining the seeds from the frozen blueberry pulp.

If you prepared the blueberries before freezing, they should already be picked over, washed, and clean. No idea what vanilla extract does to the taste, but I imagined that it would smooth out the sweetness between the simple syrup and the blueberries.

Ingredients

2 quart-sized bags of frozen blueberries
1 tbsp vanilla extract (optional)
1 c. water + 3/4 c. organic granulated sugar

Directions

1. In a small pot, heat water and sugar together until it boils; then let it simmer for a couple minutes. Set aside and let cool to room temperature.

2. With a chopping blade in the food prep, add frozen blueberries and chop until the mixture looks like a thick slushy gone wild. No extra chilling is required before adding this mixture (minus the blade) to the ice cream maker. As it churns, add the vanilla extract.

3. The blueberry sorbet is pretty much done, but you want a smoother consistency to it than what the food prep can do. Add blueberry slushy mixture to the pre-chilled bowl of the ice cream maker. When done, transfer sorbet to quart-sized containers. Store in freezer.

This batch made just under 2 quarts. Enjoy.

Kitchen Note: The Secret Life of Pizza

Today warmed up pretty nicely and the sun even came out for several hours. This creates the ideal temperature conditions for yeast to multiply in pizza dough. In fact, it barely took an hour for the dough to more than double in size. Heck, that dough was practically slithering out of the greased bowl I put it in to rise.

I discovered today that the secret to making a crispy, thin crust pizza was a two-fold process. 

Step one involves rolling out the dough as thin as possible. Pretty straightforward you'd think, but with all my previous batch attempts, the dough still rose quite a bit and was rather chewy. Then let the dough rest under a clean kitchen towel until you're ready to bake it. Then roll it once more before putting the pizza sauce and toppings on it.

Step two involves more of a dry heat, like what you'd get on a non-raining day. The oven should already be cranked to 500 degrees F. Slip the pizza into the oven either onto a pizza stone or the reverse side of a heavy baking sheet. Bake the pizza for 8 minutes. Basically when it looks like the edges of the pizza are burning or the parchment paper smells like it is on fire, the pizza is done.

Lemon Sorbet

These lemons had been sitting around on the kitchen counter for almost a month, so it was time to do something with the fruit. They were the average lemon you'd get at a grocery store, except these were extra sour. I suppose that if they were used when fresh, the lemons wouldn't have been as fibrous to squeeze and might have held more juice. This recipe used five lemons.

In the US, a sherbert contains dairy and a sorbet has no dairy content. Think of this recipe, like a frozen lemonade, though more on the sour side and a palate cleanser, than a sweet dessert. Also, the colder the ingredients, the faster it'll turn into sorbet in the ice cream maker.

Makes 1 pint.

Ingredients

1 c. fresh lemon juice, chilled
1 c. simple syrup, chilled

Directions

1. Squeeze lemons for the juice and remove any seeds or pith bits. Mix the simple syrup and lemon juice together in a bowl before adding to the right-from-the-freezer bowl of the ice cream maker.

2. After 20 minutes, or until the mixture has fluffed up a bit and formed the sorbet. Use a rubber spatula to empty the ice cream maker bowl into a 1-pint container. Store sorbet in the freezer until ready to serve.

Simple Syrup

I suppose that in a pinch, you could also use Trader Joe's simple syrup; but it's so easy to make this I'm not sure why you would buy it pre-made.

Ingredients

2 c. organic granulated sugar
2 c. water

Directions

Combine water and sugar in a saucepan and cook over medium heat until the sugar has dissolved completely. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature before using.

This stays "fresh" for weeks in the refrigerator.

Pickled Ginger

Ever buy a stub of fresh ginger from the grocery store and end up using it in just one or two dishes, then look in horror as it gets all shriveled in the fridge or on the counter by the garlic? Well, here is a way to add another month of life to the ginger. At sushi restaurants, I used to nibble on the pickled ginger with a bit of wasabi mustard and some soy sauce, though not as a palate cleanser, but simply to eat it. I haven't been able to slice it thin enough at home to replicate the ginger you get at the store or restaurant. Maybe I need a much sharper knife than the RADA knife I picked up last year. I am avoiding artificial colorants. The pink tinge can be added naturally by boiling a small red beet with the vinegar before adding the ginger to the pickling liquid.

Another way to keep the essence of ginger around is to peel the fresh ginger root and slice it into long, thin matchsticks. Then dry the ginger and keep it as a dried spice in a glass jar. I've found this also works pretty well when cooking up clear broths, steaming seafood, and to add to meat-based stews when I've run out of fresh ginger. Nothing tastes quite like fresh ginger and the flavor is far more mild after it's been dried.

At some point I would like to procure a small ceramic ginger grater. I saw it once at the Portland Home & Garden show a couple years ago, and now I can't find it anywhere. It's used in Asian cuisine a lot to get fresh ginger juice from grated ginger. Onto the recipe...

Ingredients

1/2 lb fresh ginger root, peeled and thinly sliced
1/3 c. rice vinegar
2 tbsp cooking mirin
2 tbsp sake (dry and of drinking quality, but not fusion-flavored or carbonated)
2 tbsp organic granulated sugar or brown sugar

Directions

1. Scrub the ginger under water with a mushroom brush or the rough side of a sponge to remove all the dirt. Blanch it in boiling water for a minute or so, then drain.

2. Combine the cooking mirin, sake, and sugar in a small pot and bring it to a boil until the sugar dissolves. To alter the natural beige color of the ginger to a pinkish color, you could add a small red beet in this step. Let cool.

3. In a clean, sterilized jar add the ginger and pour the vinegar over the ginger. Cover the jar and use the ginger within a week, or up to a month if kept in a refrigerator.

Stovetop Sloppy Joes

I read that this is an American classic, but I didn't start eating nor making it until well after college. I suppose it's an evolution of sorts from frying ground beef and mixing in liberal amounts of catsup and Chipotlé hot sauce. This batch came out sweeter than I expected, probably because of the red bell peppers instead of the traditional green bell peppers. 

This version doesn't use onions, although if you enjoy such flavorings, you could add a chopped onion. The recipe ratio is slightly more elaborate and still tastes fine between toasted bread, buns, sliced hoagie rolls, or whatever other source of bread-like material you have on hand. It is thick enough to be eaten with saltines or other types of crackers. Serving size depends on what you think an adequate serving size is from how much ground meat is used. If you're only using a pound of meat, then it'll be roughly four servings for the batch.

Ingredients

1 lb lean ground meat, tastes best with beef
6 oz tomato paste
1/2 c. water
1 red (or green) bell pepper, chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp cooking wine
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp paprika
1/2 tsp dry yellow mustard
1/2 tsp smoked chipotlé powder (or chili pepper)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions

1. In a large pot, heat olive oil until it spreads easily across the bottom of the pot. Add the bell pepper and garlic and fry until the oil is fragrant. If you are using chopped onions, they go in this step too. Add the ground beef and brown the sides before breaking it up into smaller chunks with a heatproof utensil.

2. When the beef is mostly cooked (very little pink showing), add the tomato paste, water, Worchestershire sauce, paprika, dry mustard and chipotlé powder. Season with sea salt and a few grinds of black pepper.

3. Simmer on low heat for 20-30 minutes. Toast some bread and slather butter onto it, or serve over hamburger buns, with crackers, or over more cooked meat.

This can also be made in a crockpot. The process is largely the same, except the water is omitted and the sauce cooks on low for 6 hours, after the meat has been browned in another pan.

Pickled Garlic

At last weekend's Farmer's Market in Vancouver, I sampled some of the pickled garlic from the Garlic Lady booth. I tried the barbecue smoked and the spicy Italian pickled garlics. There was definitely smoky flavor in the BBQ one, but it didn't quite taste like what I thought it would taste like. The spicy Italian was much better tasting. Here is my attempt at making pickled garlic.

Ingredients

1 c. distilled vinegar
1/3 c. organic granulated sugar
1 c. peeled cloves with ends trimmed (about two garlic bulbs)
1 tsp Italian seasoning or herbs de provence seasoning blend
1/2 tsp celery seed
1/4 tsp dry mustard

Directions

1. In a small saucepan, heat vinegar and sugar until sugar is dissolved and the liquid is boiling. Add garlic cloves and boil for five minutes.

2. In a clean glass jar add the seasoning, celery seed and dry mustard.

3. Transfer garlic to a clean glass jar and fill the jar with the hot vinegar liquid so that it covers the top of the garlic. Let the jar cool and sit in the refrigerator for at least three weeks before opening.

Another tomato soup

It's springtime and still not warm enough to grow tomatoes. It is one of those soups that you can eat alone and not feel like it's bachelor food. So anyways, onto the recipe. The soy sauce has two purposes here, one is to add sodium without adding salt, and two, to balance the acidity of the tomatoes. The rice is just to add some texture and a tiny bit of protein. One cup of cooked brown rice has about five grams of protein.

Ingredients

one 14.5 oz can organic diced tomatoes
1 c. cooked chicken meat, diced
1 c. frozen corn kernels
1/4 c. brown rice, soaked in water for half a day
1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped
2 tbsp light soy sauce1 tbsp minced garlic
1 tbsp mirin
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Directions

In a 2-quart stainless steel or heavy bottomed pot, heat olive oil over medium heat and add the chopped red bell pepper and garlic. Next, add the tomatoes, corn, and brown rice. Add the soy sauce and mirin. And finally, add the rice. If you haven't soaked the rice, it will take longer to be palatable. An alternative is to use leftover cooked brown rice (1/2 cup) and add it to the soup about 10-15 minutes before you intend to serve it.

Bring to a boil, then let simmer for 30 minutes on low heat. Remove from heat and serve.

Makes 2-3 servings.

Homemade Granola Trail Mix

I'm baffled at the grocery store prices for granola and/or trail mix. I thought I'd give this a whirl since the weather is becoming warmer and drier; soon it'll be prime hiking season and I'll want something tasty to nibble on. This is a recipe that you can totally customize to what's already in the pantry and to your liking. The maple syrup can be substituted with honey and raisins for cranberries. It just so happened that I used the last of the raisins in a batch of oatmeal cookies.

Ingredients

2 c. old-fashioned rolled oats
1/2 c. raw pumpkin seeds
1/2 c. dried black currants
1/4 c. sweetened dried cranberries
1/4 c. raw almonds, sliced
1/4 c. lightly-salted roasted almonds, whole

1/4 c. maple syrup
1/4 c. brown sugar
2 tbsp unsalted butter
2 tbsp water
1 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

Directions

Preheat oven to 260 degrees F.

1. In a large bowl, combine oats, almonds, pumpkin seeds, currants, cranberries.

2. In a saucepan over medium heat, melt butter with maple syrup, brown sugar, water, vanilla, and ground cinnamon. Let cool before pouring over oat mixture. Mix well and pour into a greased 13" x 9" x 2" baking dish.

3. Bake for 30 minutes at 260 degrees F, stirring once every 15 minutes. Raise oven temp to 275 degrees F for 15 minutes. Remove from oven and stir occassionally as the granola cools. Store in an airtight container.

Kitchen Note: About that Farmer's Cheese

For the next batch, I doubled the ingredients and the cheese came out with the same texture with a slightly lemony flavor. I think I should have left the cheese alone. Alas, I didn't. I took half the cheese and dumped it into a food prep along with sun-dried tomatoes from a jar and roasted garlic cloves. It whirred around until the mixture was well blended.

I now have a cheese spread for crackers and/or bread. I think first batch of cheese tasted better as a solid than a spread. At least before the cracker-eating ritual was more manual and I could pile on the sun-dried tomatoes on top of sliced rounds of cheese and the cracker. It tastes okay, but I won't be serving this version up at any upcoming potlucks.

Lemongrass Beef Meatballs

When I was at the Oregon Convention Center for the foodservice show, I stopped by a Japanese shop (Anzen Hiroshi's) that happened to be right across the street. I picked up a jar of lemongrass powder because I never have fresh lemongrass in the pantry. This recipe is fairly basic and uses this powder in lieu of fresh lemongrass. I made this to be an appetizer for a "stake" themed potluck. Since I had goose lard available that day, these were deep fried in an oil base of goose lard and EVOO.

Use a meat thermometer to ensure that the internal temp of the meatballs is 160 degrees F.

Makes 12 medium or 30 mini meatballs.

Ingredients

1 lb organic ground beef
2 tbsp lemongrass powder
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tbsp oyster sauce
1 tbsp cornstarch
1 tsp soy sauce
1 tsp organic granulated sugar
1 tsp sesame oil
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/4 tsp Chinese five spice powder

fresh lard and/or olive oil for frying

Directions

1. In a bowl, mix together: ground beef, garlic, soy sauce, black pepper, sugar, cornstarch, oyster sauce, sesame oil, lemongrass powder, and Chinese five spice powder.

2. Take a small portion of the meat and roll it into a ball. Set aside, and repeat until no more mix is left.

3. Heat lard and olive oil in a small saucepan. This works in small batches and you don't have to use much oil. Use a spoon to rotate the meatballs so they cook evenly. It shouldn't take more than 5-10 minutes per batch on medium heat.

When the meatballs are evenly browned, check the largest meatball with a meat thermometer. Remove finished meatballs to a paper towel-lined plate and let the excess oil drain before final plating for serving.

Kitchen Note: Easy Veggie Wash

A 16 oz bottle of veggie wash from Amazon.com or other retailer will run you about $5/bottle. But why bother if you have these basic ingredients in the pantry? Wash vegetables to remove dirt, insects, pesticides, and wax.

Spray liquid:

2 tsp fresh lemon juice
2-3 tsp baking soda
1 c. filtered water

Washing liquid:

3 c. filtered water
1/4 c. white vinegar
1 tbsp sea salt

1 empty clean spray bottle

1. In a 2-cup measuring cup, mix together lemon juice, baking soda, and 1 c. filtered water. Recipe can be doubled to match the volume of the spray bottle. Pour into a spray bottle.

2. In a large bowl, add vinegar and sea salt to three cups of filtered water. Spray vegetables with and let soak in washing bowl for 20-30 minutes. Rinse with clean water, dry with towels, and put away vegetables in the crisper drawer in the refrigerator.

Chocolate Chip Scones

The sweetness of the semi-sweet chocolate chips just overpowers the overall flavor of this scone, and the addition of the sugar is a bit much. These aren't as rich tasting as when using heavy cream.

Ingredients

2 c. all-purpose unbleached flour
3/4 c. buttermilk (can also use cream, yogurt, or buttermilk substitute)
1/2 c. (1 stick) unsalted cold butter, cut into pieces
1/2 c. dried cranberries
1/2 c. semi-sweet chocolate chips
1/4 c. organic granulated sugar
1 1/4 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp sea salt

Directions

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

1. In a food processor, combine one cup of the flour, baking soda, baking powder, sugar, salt, and butter. Pulse until it resembles fine crumbs.

2. In a large bowl, add the butter/flour mixture to the remaining cup of flour. Stir in chocolate chips and dried cranberries until combined.

3. Gradually add in buttermilk and fold into batter until just combined. You may not need the entire amount of buttermilk.

4. Drop by rounded scoops onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. These spread out and rise a bit, so space scones out at least 1" apart. Bake for 20 minutes until lightly golden brown.

5. Let cool on a wire rack.

Buttermilk substitute

up to 1 cup of whole milk
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice

Add the lemon juice to the milk and let stand for about 5 minutes. Use as you would buttermilk.

Curry sauce, version 2

There is a hint of sweetness with this flavor blend, even though there are no sugars in it.

1 tbsp curry powder
1/4 tsp Chinese five spice powder
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp mirin (cooking sake)
+ enough boiling water to cover the meat

1. As you would with any meat you're about to fry (e.g., chicken drumsticks), heat the olive oil over medium in a heavy bottomed pan that is large enough to accommodate all the chicken on a single layer. Once the oil is hot enough to swirl easily across the bottom, add the curry powder and five spice powder and cook for about a minute.

2. Add the chicken and lightly brown both sides of the chicken part. Add enough boiling water to cover the meat. And, lastly, add the soy sauce and mirin.

3. Cover the pan and reduce the heat to low. Simmer the chicken for 45 minutes, or until the meat starts pulling away from the bone.

You'll have a lot of curry sauce leftover. I removed the chicken to a serving dish, and then added sweet potato chunks to the sauce and cooked that on medium heat for 20-30 minutes. The longer the potatoes cook for, the thicker the sauce becomes, so add more water if necessary.

Stuffed Pizza Rolls

I had enough dough leftover to make a small pizza, but was totally out of pizza sauce and didn't feel all that compelled to make more. I also had about 1/3 c. of leftover sausage and plenty of shredded cheese. I thought about making breadsticks. Instead, I came up with this:
a pizza roll stuffed with cheese and sausage

Directions

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

1. Using a pastry knife, divide the leftover dough into equal portions.

2. On a lightly floured surface, roll out dough to 1/4" thickness. The shape doesn't matter, but it should be large enough to accommodate a few pieces of sausage, about 1 tsp of cheese, and whatever else (sliced olives, mushrooms, sliced basil leaves, etc).

3. Place the rolled out dough in the palm of your hand and add the ingredients in the center of the dough. Gather the edges of the dough to the top and pinch it closed. It's important that you don't try to stretch the dough with your fingers because if the dough is too thin, the sausage and cheese will try to poke through as it bakes and it won't look pretty. Shape into a ball and put fold side down onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Repeat until no more dough remains.

4. Bake for 15-20 minutes, or until it is lightly browned.

I dusted the tops of the rolls with garlic salt. I suppose you could also brush the tops with melted butter and sprinkle on crushed fresh rosemary or thyme.

Pacific Northwest Harvest Calendar


S P R I N G
asparaguschardchicorieslettuce greens
strawberriesonionsherbsspices
E A R L Y _ S U M M E R
apricotsbeansblueberriescherries
herbsedible flowers peasmixed greens
onionsraspberriessquash blossoms strawberries
summer squash zucchinnichardspices
L A T E _ S U M M E R
beansblackberriesblueberriesedible flowers
figschardleekspeaches
peppersplumssquash blossoms summer squash
tomatoesherbsspicesmixed greens
A U T U M N
applesblackberriescardoonschestnuts
chicoriesedible flowers grapesherbs
leeksmixed greens peachespears
peppersplumsradicchiotomatoes
winter squash spicesbeans

This year's seed starts: arugula, basil, beets, parsley, apple (unknown variety), citrus (unknown variety, maybe a grapefruit), sugar snap peas, cherry tomato (hybrid).

Perennials from last year: blueberry, garlic, green onion, strawberries (Hood River)

Thinking about, but haven't planted yet: sugar pumpkin, corn, watermelon

Basic Pizza Dough, take 2

I am muckying around with what was a pretty decent recipe to start with. I had all this leftover whey from making cheese and thought.. hmm, what to do with it. I am also experimenting with added gluten, specifically Bob's Red Mill Gluten Flour. The whey was still warm from making cheese, but I heated it up again and let it cool to 110 degrees F before adding it to the flour. Supposedly using a pizza dough made only from all-purpose flour yields a chewy crust and a flour rich with gluten makes a crispier crust; well, this ingredient ratio will see what it really does.

Also, the last few pizzas were baked on the middle rack. I think I may just use the bottom rack in the oven. I did manage to procure an Italian-made pizza stone; but it is slow to heat up.

Ingredients Used

3 1/2 c. all-purpose unbleached flour
2 tbsp BRM gluten flour
2 1/4 tsp active dry yeast (1 envelope)
1 tsp organic granulated sugar
1 tsp sea salt
1 1/2 c. whey (or water heated to 110 degrees F)
2 tbsp olive oil

This batch is resting-to-rise in an olive-oiled gallon-size resealable freezer bag in the refrigerator.

Makes 2 lbs.

Homemade Herbed Cheese

This is my first attempt making farmer's cheese from scratch. Since it is a trial run, I am only using a quart of whole milk rather than a gallon. Now I have to figure out what to do with the leftover whey. The next time you look at mozzarella cheese prices at the grocery store, it takes a gallon of milk to make one pound. A quart of milk makes roughly 6 oz of cheese. If only the dairy farm near my neighborhood sold direct to consumers, then I could really call it a farm-to-table recipe. Who knows where Trader Joe's gets its milk. When I buy that organic stuff from Fred Meyers, it trucks in from half way across the country. At least the herbs came from the garden.

Ingredients

1 quart whole milk
1/4 c. fresh lemon juice (used two medium lemons)
kosher salt (to taste)
1/4 tsp each fresh herbs, finely minced (used thyme, chives, and garlic)

Directions

1. In a heavy-bottomed pot, heat milk over low-medium until the liquid temperature is 180 degrees F.

2. Stir in lemon juice and wait for curds to form.

3. Ladle curds into a cheesecloth-lined sieve and let drain over a bowl in the refrigerator for a few hours. You can also gather the edges of the cheesecloth and tie it with butchers twine at the top.

4. Once all the whey has been drained, transfer cheese to a small bowl and mix in salt and fresh herbs. Store cheese in a sealable container in the refrigerator for another 2-3 hours before serving.

Tomato curry rice

This recipe uses Alton Brown's method of making brown rice, except I cook for one and this is too much rice for me to eat, even for a couple days. Only white rice has a 1:1 ratio with water. Brown rice has more substance to it and requires a bit more water.

Basic recipe

1 c. brown rice (long grain like basmati, or short grain)
1 1/2 c. water
1 tbsp unsalted butter
pinch of saffron (optional)
pinch of salt

1. In a small saucepan, boil water, butter, and saffron (optional) together.

2. In an 8" x 8" baking pan (preferably glass), add rice pour water-butter liquid over it. Cover with a heat-proof lid or with aluminum foil.

No need to preheat the oven. You can put this into the oven as it heats up, just set the timer for 10 minutes longer, depending on how fast the oven comes up to temperature.

3. Bake at 375 degrees F for an hour.

Tomato curry rice

Instead of using water/butter/saffron as the liquid, use an equal amount of the sauce from the tomato curry chicken recipe, up to 2 cups of liquid for half a cup of brown basmati rice (long grain).

This dish tastes a lot like a rice pilaf or a rice dish that you'd find at an Indian restaurant. I'm sure someone has given this rice cooking method a name.

Tomato curry chicken

This is basically two dishes mixed together. This is tomato soup plus an already baked sweet potato that was diced, and a batch of curry chicken. The curry chicken is a family recipe.

Curry Chicken

4 tsp mild curry powder + 1 tbsp water
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp soy sauce
1 chili pepper, seeds removed and chopped (optional, if you like it spicy)
about 1 lb chicken parts, such as drumsticks

Directions

1. In a small prep bowl, combine curry powder and water to form a paste.

2. In a kettle, bring several cups of water to a boil. Set aside.

3. In a 2-quart pan (with a lid), heat olive oil until it spreads easily across the pan. Add the curry paste and stir until the oil is fragrant with the smell of curry. Quickly add the chicken and brown the sides of the chicken.

4. Add soy sauce and chili pepper. Then fill the pan with boiling water until the chicken is submerged.

5. Cover the pan with its lid and cook the chicken over low-medium heat for 45 minutes. If you were using a glass, enamel, or stainless steel pan, you could also bake this covered in the oven at 375 degrees F for 45 minutes.

Tomato curry chicken

One batch of curry chicken, cooked
One batch of tomato soup
One baked sweet potato, diced (optional)

In the same pan that has the chicken, add the tomato soup and diced sweet potato. Cook until the liquid has reduced somewhat. Serve over rice.

Vegetarian lettuce wraps

For this weekend's Green Themed potluck, I made a vegetarian filling for the Asian lettuce wraps. I was rather surprised that hardly anyone touched the meat filling that I also prepared for this dish. The lime juice didn't stand out on its own in the sauce base against the stronger flavors of garlic, ginger, and soy sauce. This could also be served by itself as a salad. I had leftover chestnuts from when I made the zongzi, so these also went into the dish.

For the wraps: use washed/patted dry individual leaves of butter lettuce or romaine lettuce

Ingredients
 1/4 c. roasted chestnuts, diced
1 carrot, cut into matchsticks
4 stalks green onion, thinly sliced
2 c. bean sprouts
red, yellow, orange bell peppers, thinly sliced
extra firm tofu, cut into small cubes or thin slices
6. fresh basil leaves, julienned

Marinade/Sauce

3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp ginger, grated
1 red chili pepper, de-seeded and chopped (optional)
2 tbsp lime juice (1 lime)
2 tbsp light soy sauce
2 tbsp olive oil

1. In a large bowl, combine vegetables, tofu, and chestnuts.

2. In a small saucepan, heat olive oil over medium, then add ginger, garlic, chili pepper until the oil is fragrant and the garlic is lightly browned. Add soy sauce and lime juice. Stir to combine. Remove from heat and let cool.

3. Toss marinade and vegetables together.

Wild Game Meat in PDX

Region: Portland, SW Washington

Surprisingly, while hunting big game is more common in both Oregon and Washington state (compared to my original stomping grounds, California), retail game meat / butcher shops are not easy to find. By common, I mean to suggest that one in every ten co-workers you come across knows at least one or more people who avidly hunts for the kitchen freezer and/or dinner table.

I'm talking meaty items for carnivores like wild pheasant, duck, goose, rabbit, elk, deer, and the not-so-wild-farm-raised lamb and buffalo. For any retail butcher shop to offer wild game meat, the meat has to be processed so that it meets USDA regulations. This adds some cost to the cuts but it's a lot better than slaying and hacking up an animal yourself in its native territory. Nearly all the standalone butcher shops I've come across in this region are family owned and operated. Buying direct from a butcher shop also gives you access to regionally-raised meats. It brings a whole new facet to buying local.

Game or specialty meats are those that you just can't run to a Fred Meyers to pick up from the deli case or butcher's counter. You can always find free range/naturally-raised ducks, turkeys, buffalo and lamb meat from Whole Foods or New Seasons.

I visited Chuck's Produce for the first time. If you haven't seen their weekly ad, it probably means you haven't been reading The Columbian. But, at least the specials are listed on their website now. Their meat aisle and butcher counter had an interesting assortment of unusual meats such as ground emu and frog legs. The store leans more towards locally farmed and raised meats, produce, and dairy.

These places are ones that I know of, have been recommended to me by other PDX foodies, or have visited on occassion:

[ SW Washington ]

Top Choice Meats
http://topchoicemeatmarket.com/
12313 Ne 4th Plain Rd
Vancouver, WA 98682
(360)896-8865
Meats: Beef, Pork, Sausages, Chicken, Buffalo, Elk, Free Range Turkey (seasonal)



Chuck's Produce
http://chucksproduce.com/
13215 Southeast Mill Plain Boulevard
Vancouver, WA 98684
(360) 597-2700
Meats: Beef/Pork/Chicken, Emu, Frog, Pheasant, Buffalo, Duck, Squab, Game hens, etc

[ Portland ]

Nicky USA
http://www.nickyusa.com
223 SE 3rd Avenue
Portland, OR 97214
(503) 234-4263

Meats: comprehensive (click for list)
Retail to the public: Yes, but call ahead or order online

SP Provisions
http://www.spprovisions.com
2331 NW 23rd Avenue
Portland, OR 97210
(503) 234-0579
Meats: Beef, Lamb, Veal, Pork, Poultry (Chicken, Turkey, specialty), Seafood, Sausages
Game Meats: venison, rabbit, quail, duck, elk, buffalo, wild boar, pheasant, ...
Retail to the public: Yes, but call ahead one week in advance for availability


Ordinary butcher shops until someone informs me otherwise:

Butcher Boys 
4710 E Fourth Plain Blvd
Vancouver, WA 98661-4646
(360) 693-6241


Gartner's Country Meat Market
http://www.gartnersmeats.com
7450 N.E. Killingsworth
Portland, OR. 97218
(503) 252-7801

Meats: Beef, Pork, Chicken, Turkey, Cornish Game Hens, Sausages
Specialty services: custom cutting and game processing


Other resources:
Eat Wild - Washington, Oregon
Reister Farms (Washougal, WA) - lamb meat; usually at Vancouver Farmers Market


[Updated: 2011-09-08]

Zongzi

Also known as: zòng zi, sticky rice dumplings, Chinese tamales, or simply as rice dumplings. They are known in Japan as chimaki; in Indonesia, as bakcang or bacang; and as machang among Chinese Filipinos. Laotians, Thais, and Cambodians use lotus leaves to wrap their rice dumplings variants.

These aren't exactly dumplings, but they are either boiled or steamed for the final preparation. I found that boiling fared better than steaming did. For my first batch, I steamed (for an hour) and cooked (for an hour) because the rice wasn't cooked after an hour of steaming. And, while I have only experienced making in a group setting, there is a reason why few people actually make these on their own for personal consumption. This is a multi-prep process that takes hours and a lot of patience. I couldn't quite get the dumpling to conform to the traditional triangular bundle shape, so these look a lot like they were wrapped by someone who has no knowledge of how corn tamales are wrapped. The rice used is called glutinous rice, though it's also packaged as sweet white rice.

The history of these dumplings has evolved over the centuries and evoke a positive or neutral connotation, depending on which story you're told. They are typically eaten as a festival food for the Dragon Boat Festival that is usually held on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month and it looks like Portland's dragon boat races are in September. Reference recipes included: Saveur, Asian Dumpling Tips, and various sites with video instruction on how to wrap these darn things. It'll take a lot more practice to fold these the right way.

Day before

soak bamboo leaves in a sink basin or large tub of warm water
soak glutinous rice in water

Ingredients

1 lb boneless country pork rib, cut into 1/2" x 1" slices
1/2 c. dried shitake mushrooms, rehydrated and cut in to thin strips
3-5 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
2 star anise
1/2 tsp Chinese five-spice powder
1 tsp organic granulated sugar
1/2 c. low-sodium soy sauce
1/3 c. shaoxing rice wine
2 1/2 c. uncooked glutinous rice
2 stalks green onion, sliced into 1" pieces
small roasted chestnuts, shelled and rehydrated if using dried
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
vegetable oil for frying
bamboo leaves, rehydrated and pliable (need at least two per bundle)
kitchen string for tying dumpling bundles

Directions

1. In a medium bowl, wash rice under cold water until the water runs clear. Stir 1/2 c. cold water into the rice and put the bowl in the fridge. Let this sit for 8 hours or overnight.

2. In a small bowl, soak shitake mushrooms in warm water to rehydrate. Slice mushrooms into thin strips and set aside.

3. In a small lidded pot, if using dried chestnuts, add chestnuts to put and cover with water. Bring the pot up to a boil for 10 minutes then turn off the heat. Let the chestnuts soak for an hour.

4. In a separate bowl, combine pork, soy sauce, rice wine, mushrooms, garlic, sugar, star anise, salt, pepper, and five-spice powder. Mix pork in so that the marinade is combined. Cover bowl and refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight.

5. In a frying pan large enough to accommodate all the pork and mushrooms, add about 2 tbsp cooking oil and the green onion. Stir until the onion has turned a vibrant green color and the oil is fragrant with the onion. Remove onion from pan and set aside in a small bowl.

Next, add the pork and stir fry briefly. Add the remainder of the ingredients (minus the star anise) to the pan and let it simmer for about an hour. Depending on how comfortable you are with transporting a food like this between places. I opted to cook the pork before packaging it into the dumpling. Some recipes for zongzi don't require cooking the meat before, and others do. When the pork is tender and cooked, drain off marinade and separate the pork from the mushrooms.

You could also fry the mushrooms and the pork separately; but alas, I was lazy and fried it all together.

Wrapping

I don't have any insight for wrapping techniques, so I'll refer you to the aforementioned reference links. What I do know, is that the spine side of the bamboo leaf faces down and you put a layer of rice, then your more substantive ingredients (some pork, some mushrooms, few slices of green onion, and a small chestnut), then another layer of rice, and close it up so that the rice doesn't escape in the cooking process.

Cooking

Pack dumplings (as many as you want to eat; 1-2 dumplings per person is an adequate serving size) into a large heavy pot and add enough water so that there is 1/2" above the dumplings. Cover pot and bring to a boil. Simmer zongzi over low-medium heat for 1-2 hours. Check the pot to make sure that there is enough water. Drain and serve.

Storage

The boiled zongzi can be soaked in water and stored in the refrigerator for a few days. Freeze uncooked zongzi in a freezer bag; keeps for several months.

Bamboo leaves soaking in the sink
Completed, but uncooked zongzi
Inside a cooked zongzi

Single Crust Apple Pie with Streusel Topping

Happy Pi Day!

Made this beautiful apple pie on Saturday but didn't gobble up the first slice until today. The apples that went into the filling were just what was on hand: gala and fuji, two varieties that I enjoy eating a lot. With a streusel topping, this pie can easily accommodate twice as many chopped apples as what the recipe calls for. I really don't care for the salty taste in the crust, so I may omit it next time.
Apple pie fresh from the oven
A slice of apple pie
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

Single crust ingredients

1 1/4 c. all-purpose unbleached flour
1/2 tsp sea salt
1/2 tsp organic granulated sugar
4 oz unsalted cold butter, cut into cubes
1/3 c. ice water (or chilled vodka)

Crust directions:

1. In a food processor, combine flour, salt and sugar. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles a coarsely ground cornmeal. Gradually add the water, pulsing after each addition. You may not even need the entire 1/3 c. of water.

2. Form the dough into a ball and gently roll out to a 1/4" thickness on a lightly floured surface until it is large enough to fill a 9" pie plate. Roll crust onto rolling pin and unroll it on top of the pie plate. Use a unserrated knife to cut away the excess dough from the edge of the plate.

3. You can use the leftover dough crust to make decorative shapes for the top of the pie. I used a heart-shaped cookie cutter for this pie.

4. Put pie plate into the refrigerator until ready to use.

Streusel topping ingredients

1 c. all-purpose unbleached flour
1/2 c. brown sugar
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 c. (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

In a bowl, whisk together flour, brown sugar, and cinnamon. Add melted butter and mix ingredients with a fork until mixture forms crumbs.

Pie filling ingredients:

4 c. apples, peeled and cored, cut into 1/2" chunks
1/2 c. organic granulated sugar
1 tbsp all-purpose unbleached flour
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp butter, cut into small pieces

In a bowl, combine apples, sugar, flour, cinnamon, and lemon juice. Pour filling into the pie plate. Add remaining tablespoon of butter. Sprinkle streusel on top of apples. Arrange cookie cut-outs on top of the streusel in a decorative pattern.

Bake for 45 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool on a rack before serving.

Simple Lemon Bars

This is the simplest lemon bar recipe that I know of. Its crust is for an 8" x 8" baking pan.
Lightly sprinkled with powdered sugar
For the crust:

1 c. all-purpose unbleached flour
1/4 c. powdered sugar
1/4 c. (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted

For the filling:

2/3 c. organic, granulated sugar
2 tbsp all-purpose unbleached flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
2 eggs
3 tbsp lemon juice
zest of one medium lemon

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

1. In a bowl, whisk together flour and powdered sugar with a fork. Stir in melted butter until small crumbs form. Empty into an 8 x 8 baking pan and press crust down with a fork.

2. In a separate bowl, whisk together sugar, flour, baking powder, lemon zest, and lemon juice until ingredients are mixed well. Add in eggs and whisk to combine.

3. Bake crust for 10-15 minutes, or until lightly golden on top. Remove from oven and add the filling.

4. Bake lemon bars for 20-25 minutes, until the edges are golden brown and not dark brown. Let cool before cutting into squares.

To add extra zing to the crust, you can split the lemon zest between the filling and the crust. And, to make it more tart, an additional tablespoon of lemon juice can be added to the filling.

Pizza Margherita

No pizza stones were harmed in the making of these pizzas. But, the real reason is that I don't actually own a pizza stone. And while the notion of using the reverse side of my cast iron pan had crossed my mind, I ended up using a heavy baking sheet with parchment paper and a medium-ground cornmeal between the paper and the dough. I've read that one can get an extra crispy crust this way by letting the pizza bake on the middle rack in the oven, directly on the rack itself, for the last 2-3 minutes. Alas, I'm too lazy for that.


These recipes have been adapted from one of Emeril's episodes on pizza with minor tweaks. Number one, I wasn't about to crack open a bottle of cab just to put a few tablespoons of it into the sauce; I used the next best thing on the counter...shaoxing rice wine (Chinese red rice wine). If you are able to ingest onions, they go into oil at the same time as the garlic. As far as whatever differences there are between EVOO and regular olive oil, I really have no idea, but since it all costs the same, my pantry is stocked with EVOO. Also, a lot of my recipes call for sea salt. For pizza you can use just about any type of salt, including kosher salt.

Margherita pizza implies only three toppings that represent the Italian flag are used: tomato sauce (red), fresh basil (green), and fresh mozzarella cheese (white). You'll want to procure some fresh mozzarella cheese for this and slice it into thin rounds. They are just going to melt into blobs on top of the pizza, so whatever shape you do cut them into, that is what they are more or less going to melt into.

If you are going to use a pizza stone, it is important that you let the stone heat up in the oven so that your dough cooks evenly.

1/4 c. medium-ground cornmeal (optional)
up to 8 oz of fresh mozzarella cheese

Basic Tomato Sauce

One (14.5 oz) can of diced tomatoes, no salt added
1/2 c. water (use it in the can to rinse out the tomato particulates)
2-3 tbsp red wine (or xiaoxing red rice wine)
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp minced garlic (roughly 3-4 medium cloves)
up to 1 tbsp dried oregano (or fresh if you have it)
6 fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 small red onion, finely diced (optional)

Sauce directions

1. In a medium pot, heat oil until it spreads along the bottom of the pot easily. Add the garlic (and onion) and stir until the onion is soft and translucent and the garlic hasn't burned or turned golden brown. The idea is to flavor the oil, I think.

2. Add the tomatoes, basil leaves, wine, oregano, salt and pepper, and water. Bring it to a boil and then simmer for 20-25 minutes.

3. Let the sauce cool before putting it on the pizza dough.

Pizza Dough

This dough uses all-purpose flour which creates a much chewier crust than say, using a high gluten flour. You could also buy gluten to add to the all purpose flour, but that's an extra step and who really wants to run to Whole Foods for just one ingredient. Also, a 4-oz jar of Red Star active dry yeast lasts a lot longer than the packets when kept in the refrigerator.

Ingredients

3 1/2 to 4 c. all-purpose unbleached flour 
1 1/2 c. water, 110 degrees F
2 tbsp EVOO, plus 2 tsp for greasing a large bowl
1 envelope instant dry yeast -or- 2 1/4 tsp active dry yeast (if you have the jar stuff)
1 tsp organic granulated sugar
1 tsp sea salt

Dough directions

1. Combine flour, sugar, yeast, olive oil, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer or in the bread receptacle of a bread machine. While the mixer is running, gradually add the water and mix until the dough comes together. Knead by hand (or if you're lazy, in the standmixer) until the dough is smooth and elastic.

2. Grease a large bowl with the remaining 2 tsp of olive oil, form the dough into a ball, and add it to the bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap (or use another equal sized bowl on top, using binder clips to keep the edges of the two bowls together). Let the dough rest in a warm area (roughly 80-85 degrees F) and let it double in size for an hour.

This might be tough to do during the winter. But wait, there is a workaround. Place the covered bowl into the oven on the middle rack. Fill an 8x8 or 9x13 baking pan with boiling water. Put the baking pan on the floor of the oven and close the door. This'll create a warm environment for the dough.

3. Depending on how large a pizza you have baking space to make will determine how many pieces you cut this blob of dough into. I cut it into fourths, so each piece makes about an 8" pizza. You can cut it in half and make two 14" pizzas. After cutting the dough into sections, turn each section as you are about to make it into a pizza, onto a lightly floured surface. Knead it a bit then cover and let the dough rest for 10 minutes.

4. Roll out the dough into a shape that resembles something circular.

Putting It All Together

Preheat oven to 500 degrees F.

1. Take our rolled out pizza dough and spread some of the cooled tomato sauce on it. Be sure to have at least a half inch to an inch gap betwee the edge of the pizza and the sauce. Otherwise, the sauce spills out over the side of the pizza and makes a rather burnt mess.

2. Add thin slices of mozzarella and sprinkle with fresh basil leaves. You could add more dried oregano, but that is totally up to you, since it is already in the sauce. For the first pizza I had the basil on top of the cheese; the second pizza had the cheese on top of the basil. It makes no difference.

3. Bake on the center rack for 8-10 minutes, until the edges are lightly golden brown and the cheese has melted.

The pizza is supposed to cool on a rack, but my first pizza never made it that far. *nom nom nom*

View pics.
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