Homemade Kimchi

Korean-styled Pickled Cabbage ("kimchi")

Napa cabbage is a pretty versatile vegetable. It's heart (innermost leaves and core) are slightly sweeter than the outer leaves and is often used in Asian vegetable soups. It can be fried with a bit of oil and dried shrimp as a traditional vegetable dish. And, it can be made into one of Korea's national dishes, kimchi. The price of commercially bought kimchi often reflects the current market price on napa cabbage, and can be pretty expensive for a large jar of it. Doing it from scratch means that a few notable ingredients are left out are sugar and preservatives.

The sweetness comes from other ingredients, mainly the inner heart of the cabbage, a vidalia onion, an apple, and a pear. The longer it ferments, the more sour the kimchi will become. It's still edible, but most sites that have a similar recipe recommend that you eat it within the week or at most a few weeks.

The Foodening Blog - kimchi ready for fermenting

The original recipe walk-through comes from here. I didn't deviate from the original directions much. Large tongs can be used instead of gloves to mix the cabbage with the chili paste. I used a Fuji apple, a D'anjou pear, and a Vidalia onion.

When napa cabbage is in season, it should be about $0.99/lb. A healthy head will be about 2-3 pounds. Be sure to have a large cleaned glass jar with a lid on hand that is pint or quart sized. You can certainly have a large jar than that if you really enjoy kimchi. You'll know that it is fermenting when the liquid starts to bubble inside the jar.

The actual prep time for this recipe is about an hour. The additional time needed is for the ingredients to brine (4 hours) and/or ferment (24 hours).

Ingredients

One napa cabbage
1/4 c. sea salt + 1 c. water
1/4 c. ground red chili peppers + 1/4 c. warm water
1 tbsp garlic, minced
1 tbsp fresh ginger, minced
2 tbsp fish sauce
4 stalks green onions, thinly sliced
1 c. water + 1/2 apple + 1/2 pear + 1/2 yellow onion

Directions

1. In a measuring cup, dissolve 1/4 c. sea salt in water.

2. In a small bowl, mix red chili peppers with 1/4 c. warm water to form a paste.

3. In a large metal (non-plastic) bowl, combine chopped napa cabbage and salt water. Let this sit for 4 hours. Turn the cabbage every couple hours so that the white part of the leaves brine evenly.

4. After the cabbage has finished brining in the salt water, rinse it under cold water three or four times to remove all the salt water. The cabbage will still taste salty and there is no need to add additional salt.

5. In a food prep, blend into a slurry: half an onion, half a pear, half an apple with one cup of water.

6. Transfer the rinsed cabbage to a large bowl and add the red chili paste, garlic, ginger, green onions, fish sauce, and onion slurry. Mix thoroughly using tongs.

7. Fill jars with cabbage and leftover liquid. Be sure to not fill the jars to the top since the ingredients will expand slightly during fermentation. Cap jars and let sit at room temperature for 24 hours before storing in the refrigerator.

The Foodening Blog: Kimchi in Jars

Ginger Sugar, Candied Ginger, and Ginger Syrup

At different stages of this recipe, you can make everything in the title of this post. I got the idea from reading Alton Brown's candied ginger recipe. Today was just a test batch, so I used a pretty small amount of fresh ginger. I don't have a digital food scale, so the amount of ginger used is just an approximation. You can save the peeled ginger skin to flavor broths and steam shellfish and/or seafood, like fish and crab.

Ingredients

1/4 pounds of fresh ginger, peeled
1/2 c. organic granulated sugar
1/2 c. filtered water

Directions

I recommend this order of operations because you can see how much water is really needed to make the syrup. Alton's method would have you use equal portions of ginger, water, and sugar. But I'm not comfortable with boiling such a small quantity of ginger for so long in so little water.

1. Slice the peeled ginger slightly larger than 1/8" and less than 1/4" thick. I found that 1/8" thick slices come out really small after the cooking process.

2. In a small pot, add ginger slices and sugar. Then add the water.

3. Bring to a boil and stir frequently. Let simmer for 20 minutes or until the water has nearly evaporated and the ginger is tender.

When the liquid has reduced by half, the ginger syrup is ready to be put into other sauces, on top of breads, or on ice cream.

4. Carefully remove the ginger to a drying rack that has been placed over a pie dish or parchment paper-lined baking tray. This will catch the residual ginger syrup which will eventually crystallize into sugar.

5. Let the ginger cool, then store in an airtight container for a couple weeks.

6. The scrape out the leftover syrup/sugar from the pot and let it dry on the same rack. As the water evaporates, what you'll have left is ginger-flavored sugar. This can be mixed in with more sugar, if you like. Store the ginger sugar in a separate airtight container. This, like vanilla sugar, keeps for quite a while in the pantry.

Pear Cobbler

Pears are probably my favorite winter time fruit after the apple. My favorite pear is the Bartlett because it is firm, crisp and very sweet; though they are too firm to be used in desserts or other cooked recipes. Pears can be eaten right off the core, baked into pies and cobblers, made into a chutney, soup, or turned into jam. If you store the fruits well, they'll keep for several months in the refrigerator. I store apples and pears in the fridge in the same plastic bag they came in, except I press out as much air as I can and spin the bag so that the opening is closed at the top. Even though aging fruit gives off nitrogen, what makes them rot faster in the fridge is the exposure to moisture and oxygen.

This is a simple pear cobbler recipe. If you would like to add a variety of other colors and textures, then up to 1/4 unsweetened dried cranberries or raisins, raw or lightly toasted pumpkin seeds can be added to the filling or the streusel-like topping. If you don't care what color the pears are after baking, you may add lemon juice to the pears

Ingredients

2-3 lbs ripe anjou pears, chopped into 1/2" slices
up to 2 tbsp organic granulated sugar
1 tsp nutmeg
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice (optional)

1/4 c. brown sugar
1 c. old fashioned rolled oats
1/3 c. all-purpose unbleached flour
1/4 c. unsalted butter, softened or cut into chunks

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Directions

1.  In a large bowl, combine chopped pears, granulated sugar, nutmeg, and optional items. Mix well so that the pears are evenly coated with sugar and spice and everything nice.

2. In another bowl, combine oats, flour, butter, and brown sugar. Cut the butter into the flour so that it resembles coarse crumbs, or something.

3. In an 8" x 8" baking pan, add pear mixture and top with the oat mixture.

4. Bake in a pre-heated oven for 30 minutes.

Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream

It was debatable between Martha Stewart's or Alton Brown's recipe for this, about which method to use. Frankly, while the number of eggs I would have to sacrifice for a quart of delicious ice cream would be about the same, Alton Brown's would have had me hatch open a jar of peach preserves for two tablespoons of the stuff. The closest to preserves (not jam) that I have is peach marmalade which I picked up from Portland Nursery's apple tasting event last fall. While I am tempted to make the AB version, it wouldn't couple well with other uses of ice cream such as in rootbeer floats or ice cream sandwiches. And, the way June is looking at the moment (very cold and wet), it doesn't look like there'll be locally grown peaches at the farmer's markets any time soon.

Since I wasn't about to sacrifice two beans for this, I used one vanilla bean plus one tablespoon of vanilla extract. Also, refrigerating the "custard" overnight didn't seem to make the ice cream churn any faster in the ice cream maker. Leftover egg whites freeze really well and can be used later in other recipes.

Don't toss the vanilla bean pod parts after you finish making the cream base. Wash the bean pod clean and set aside to air dry. When the pod is completely dry, immerse it into honey or sugar to make vanilla honey or vanilla sugar.

Ingredients

1 vanilla bean
2 c. whole milk, chilled
6 egg yolks
3/4 c. organic granulated sugar
2 c. heavy cream
1 tbsp vanilla extract

Directions

1. Pour milk and cream into a heavy-bottomed pot. Split the vanilla bean down the middle and use a knife blade to scrape out the tiny black seeds. Add the seeds and the pod to the milk/cream mixture. Bring to a boil then turn off heat and let the pod steep for 30 minutes.

2. In a large bowl, beat egg yolks and sugar until the yolks become thick and pale yellow.

3. Temper the egg mixture by gradually adding 1/4 cup of the hot cream and whisk to combine. Repeat until the cream mixture is thoroughly incorporated into the egg mixture. Whisking or beating with an electric mixer with a balloon whisk attachment.

4. Pour liquid back into the pot and heat until it thickens. When the liquid is able to coat the back of a spoon, turn off the heat and let cool on the stove.

5. Using a fine mesh sieve, pour the cream mixture into a container large enough to accommodate it all. Cover and let chill in the refrigerator until the liquid temperature is 40 degrees F, or chill overnight.

6. Freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions.

The Spice Route by John Keay

"The human body needs minerals, notably salt; but pepper, the most substantially traded of all spices, is a dietary irrelevance. One might live a perfectly healthy life without ever ingesting, inhaling or otherwise being exposed to any one of the desiccated bits of vegatation that have traditionally been considered spices. Nor are they addictive in any physiological sense. The withdrawal symptoms might be evinced at times of scarcity were purely social and economic."

Blueberry Sorbet

With less than two months until peak blueberry picking season, I managed to turn about half of my frozen cache into a tasty dessert. This would be a delightful alternative to ice cream if the gods of global warming would turn on the sun this weekend. I don't own a blender, so I used a 7-cup Cuisinart food prep for this and I didn't bother straining the seeds from the frozen blueberry pulp.

If you prepared the blueberries before freezing, they should already be picked over, washed, and clean. No idea what vanilla extract does to the taste, but I imagined that it would smooth out the sweetness between the simple syrup and the blueberries.

Ingredients

2 quart-sized bags of frozen blueberries
1 tbsp vanilla extract (optional)
1 c. water + 3/4 c. organic granulated sugar

Directions

1. In a small pot, heat water and sugar together until it boils; then let it simmer for a couple minutes. Set aside and let cool to room temperature.

2. With a chopping blade in the food prep, add frozen blueberries and chop until the mixture looks like a thick slushy gone wild. No extra chilling is required before adding this mixture (minus the blade) to the ice cream maker. As it churns, add the vanilla extract.

3. The blueberry sorbet is pretty much done, but you want a smoother consistency to it than what the food prep can do. Add blueberry slushy mixture to the pre-chilled bowl of the ice cream maker. When done, transfer sorbet to quart-sized containers. Store in freezer.

This batch made just under 2 quarts. Enjoy.

Kitchen Note: The Secret Life of Pizza

Today warmed up pretty nicely and the sun even came out for several hours. This creates the ideal temperature conditions for yeast to multiply in pizza dough. In fact, it barely took an hour for the dough to more than double in size. Heck, that dough was practically slithering out of the greased bowl I put it in to rise.

I discovered today that the secret to making a crispy, thin crust pizza was a two-fold process. 

Step one involves rolling out the dough as thin as possible. Pretty straightforward you'd think, but with all my previous batch attempts, the dough still rose quite a bit and was rather chewy. Then let the dough rest under a clean kitchen towel until you're ready to bake it. Then roll it once more before putting the pizza sauce and toppings on it.

Step two involves more of a dry heat, like what you'd get on a non-raining day. The oven should already be cranked to 500 degrees F. Slip the pizza into the oven either onto a pizza stone or the reverse side of a heavy baking sheet. Bake the pizza for 8 minutes. Basically when it looks like the edges of the pizza are burning or the parchment paper smells like it is on fire, the pizza is done.

Lemon Sorbet

These lemons had been sitting around on the kitchen counter for almost a month, so it was time to do something with the fruit. They were the average lemon you'd get at a grocery store, except these were extra sour. I suppose that if they were used when fresh, the lemons wouldn't have been as fibrous to squeeze and might have held more juice. This recipe used five lemons.

In the US, a sherbert contains dairy and a sorbet has no dairy content. Think of this recipe, like a frozen lemonade, though more on the sour side and a palate cleanser, than a sweet dessert. Also, the colder the ingredients, the faster it'll turn into sorbet in the ice cream maker.

Makes 1 pint.

Ingredients

1 c. fresh lemon juice, chilled
1 c. simple syrup, chilled

Directions

1. Squeeze lemons for the juice and remove any seeds or pith bits. Mix the simple syrup and lemon juice together in a bowl before adding to the right-from-the-freezer bowl of the ice cream maker.

2. After 20 minutes, or until the mixture has fluffed up a bit and formed the sorbet. Use a rubber spatula to empty the ice cream maker bowl into a 1-pint container. Store sorbet in the freezer until ready to serve.

Simple Syrup

I suppose that in a pinch, you could also use Trader Joe's simple syrup; but it's so easy to make this I'm not sure why you would buy it pre-made.

Ingredients

2 c. organic granulated sugar
2 c. water

Directions

Combine water and sugar in a saucepan and cook over medium heat until the sugar has dissolved completely. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature before using.

This stays "fresh" for weeks in the refrigerator.

Pickled Ginger

Ever buy a stub of fresh ginger from the grocery store and end up using it in just one or two dishes, then look in horror as it gets all shriveled in the fridge or on the counter by the garlic? Well, here is a way to add another month of life to the ginger. At sushi restaurants, I used to nibble on the pickled ginger with a bit of wasabi mustard and some soy sauce, though not as a palate cleanser, but simply to eat it. I haven't been able to slice it thin enough at home to replicate the ginger you get at the store or restaurant. Maybe I need a much sharper knife than the RADA knife I picked up last year. I am avoiding artificial colorants. The pink tinge can be added naturally by boiling a small red beet with the vinegar before adding the ginger to the pickling liquid.

Another way to keep the essence of ginger around is to peel the fresh ginger root and slice it into long, thin matchsticks. Then dry the ginger and keep it as a dried spice in a glass jar. I've found this also works pretty well when cooking up clear broths, steaming seafood, and to add to meat-based stews when I've run out of fresh ginger. Nothing tastes quite like fresh ginger and the flavor is far more mild after it's been dried.

At some point I would like to procure a small ceramic ginger grater. I saw it once at the Portland Home & Garden show a couple years ago, and now I can't find it anywhere. It's used in Asian cuisine a lot to get fresh ginger juice from grated ginger. Onto the recipe...

Ingredients

1/2 lb fresh ginger root, peeled and thinly sliced
1/3 c. rice vinegar
2 tbsp cooking mirin
2 tbsp sake (dry and of drinking quality, but not fusion-flavored or carbonated)
2 tbsp organic granulated sugar or brown sugar

Directions

1. Scrub the ginger under water with a mushroom brush or the rough side of a sponge to remove all the dirt. Blanch it in boiling water for a minute or so, then drain.

2. Combine the cooking mirin, sake, and sugar in a small pot and bring it to a boil until the sugar dissolves. To alter the natural beige color of the ginger to a pinkish color, you could add a small red beet in this step. Let cool.

3. In a clean, sterilized jar add the ginger and pour the vinegar over the ginger. Cover the jar and use the ginger within a week, or up to a month if kept in a refrigerator.

Stovetop Sloppy Joes

I read that this is an American classic, but I didn't start eating nor making it until well after college. I suppose it's an evolution of sorts from frying ground beef and mixing in liberal amounts of catsup and Chipotlé hot sauce. This batch came out sweeter than I expected, probably because of the red bell peppers instead of the traditional green bell peppers. 

This version doesn't use onions, although if you enjoy such flavorings, you could add a chopped onion. The recipe ratio is slightly more elaborate and still tastes fine between toasted bread, buns, sliced hoagie rolls, or whatever other source of bread-like material you have on hand. It is thick enough to be eaten with saltines or other types of crackers. Serving size depends on what you think an adequate serving size is from how much ground meat is used. If you're only using a pound of meat, then it'll be roughly four servings for the batch.

Ingredients

1 lb lean ground meat, tastes best with beef
6 oz tomato paste
1/2 c. water
1 red (or green) bell pepper, chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp cooking wine
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp paprika
1/2 tsp dry yellow mustard
1/2 tsp smoked chipotlé powder (or chili pepper)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions

1. In a large pot, heat olive oil until it spreads easily across the bottom of the pot. Add the bell pepper and garlic and fry until the oil is fragrant. If you are using chopped onions, they go in this step too. Add the ground beef and brown the sides before breaking it up into smaller chunks with a heatproof utensil.

2. When the beef is mostly cooked (very little pink showing), add the tomato paste, water, Worchestershire sauce, paprika, dry mustard and chipotlé powder. Season with sea salt and a few grinds of black pepper.

3. Simmer on low heat for 20-30 minutes. Toast some bread and slather butter onto it, or serve over hamburger buns, with crackers, or over more cooked meat.

This can also be made in a crockpot. The process is largely the same, except the water is omitted and the sauce cooks on low for 6 hours, after the meat has been browned in another pan.

Pickled Garlic

At last weekend's Farmer's Market in Vancouver, I sampled some of the pickled garlic from the Garlic Lady booth. I tried the barbecue smoked and the spicy Italian pickled garlics. There was definitely smoky flavor in the BBQ one, but it didn't quite taste like what I thought it would taste like. The spicy Italian was much better tasting. Here is my attempt at making pickled garlic.

Ingredients

1 c. distilled vinegar
1/3 c. organic granulated sugar
1 c. peeled cloves with ends trimmed (about two garlic bulbs)
1 tsp Italian seasoning or herbs de provence seasoning blend
1/2 tsp celery seed
1/4 tsp dry mustard

Directions

1. In a small saucepan, heat vinegar and sugar until sugar is dissolved and the liquid is boiling. Add garlic cloves and boil for five minutes.

2. In a clean glass jar add the seasoning, celery seed and dry mustard.

3. Transfer garlic to a clean glass jar and fill the jar with the hot vinegar liquid so that it covers the top of the garlic. Let the jar cool and sit in the refrigerator for at least three weeks before opening.

Another tomato soup

It's springtime and still not warm enough to grow tomatoes. It is one of those soups that you can eat alone and not feel like it's bachelor food. So anyways, onto the recipe. The soy sauce has two purposes here, one is to add sodium without adding salt, and two, to balance the acidity of the tomatoes. The rice is just to add some texture and a tiny bit of protein. One cup of cooked brown rice has about five grams of protein.

Ingredients

one 14.5 oz can organic diced tomatoes
1 c. cooked chicken meat, diced
1 c. frozen corn kernels
1/4 c. brown rice, soaked in water for half a day
1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped
2 tbsp light soy sauce1 tbsp minced garlic
1 tbsp mirin
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Directions

In a 2-quart stainless steel or heavy bottomed pot, heat olive oil over medium heat and add the chopped red bell pepper and garlic. Next, add the tomatoes, corn, and brown rice. Add the soy sauce and mirin. And finally, add the rice. If you haven't soaked the rice, it will take longer to be palatable. An alternative is to use leftover cooked brown rice (1/2 cup) and add it to the soup about 10-15 minutes before you intend to serve it.

Bring to a boil, then let simmer for 30 minutes on low heat. Remove from heat and serve.

Makes 2-3 servings.