Pickled Kohlrabi

I thought about taking a photo of this batch, but it just looks like some white vegetable in a pickling brine in a jar. It is not terribly exciting. With the bounty of summertime vegetables, the kohlrabi was never at the top of my list of things to buy. It is part of the cabbage family and as such, it will probably cause bloating and gas if you consume a lot of it in one sitting. At the very least, it is very high in fiber. And, for its bulk, it is very low in calories. Compared to other vegetables, it is kind of expensive to buy and not all the grocery stores carry them. They are seasonal and I was surprised to see them on the grocery store shelf during summer. I thought they were an autumn vegetable. Anyhow, onto the pickling...

After peeling the kohlrabi with a vegetable peeler and trimming off the hard, woody part of the stem with a sharp knife, I used the narrow blade disc attachment of the food prep machine to slice all the kohlrabi. With a little prep, I was able to slice a couple pounds of this vegetable in a few minutes. It's a lot easier than slicing the vegetable by hand.

If you have pickling salt, by all means use it. I do not and am using sea salt as a substitute.

Pickling Brine

2 lbs kohlrabi, purple or white (doesn't matter which)
2 c distilled white vinegar (or 1 c distilled white vinegar + 1 c apple cider vinegar)
2 c water
2 tbsp raw honey
2 tbsp sea salt
1 tbsp fresh ginger, peeled and minced
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2 tsp black peppercorns
1/4 tsp red chili flakes

Directions

1. Sterilize jars and lids for canning and set aside until ready to use.

2. Clean and trim kohlrabi. Slice into thin slices with a food processor, mandoline, or with a sharp knife. Divide slices evenly into jars.

3. Combine vinegar, water, honey, sea salt, ginger, garlic, black peppercorns, and chili flakes in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add brine to jars. Place lids on jars and tighten with jar bands.

4. Process using a hot water bath for 10 minutes.

This batch made 3 pints.

Pickled Beets

For this batch of beets, I seem to have undercooked them by just a bit. They boiled for an hour too, but apparently it wasn't long enough. These were small to medium sized beets. Despite some being "fork tender", others still had some crunch. I suppose beets can be eaten raw. I just haven't eaten it that way. I also boiled these whole without removing the stems or roots. Just scrub them clean before cooking.

I've read that the only difference between kosher salt and pickling salt is what else is in it. Table salt cannot be used since it is usually laced with iodine, which can make a cloudy brine. Pickling salt has no added iodine; sea salt has minimal iodine and is an acceptable substitute; and kosher salt has added yellow prussiate of soda (at least the Morton's brand does) which also discolors the brine.  

The pickling liquid is enough for 5 pints of beets and can be doubled.

Pickling Liquid

3-5 lbs of raw whole beets
1 c organic granulated sugar
1 tbsp sea salt
1 c apple cider vinegar
1 c distilled white vinegar
whole cloves, 4 per jar
whole peeled garlic cloves, 2 per jar
1 c beet water (water that the beets cooked in)

Directions

1. In a large pot, add raw beets and fill with enough water to cover them. Boil for at least an hour or until the beets are fork tender. Remove from heat and add whole beets to a large bowl filled with ice water. This will help cool the beets down. With the faucet running cold water, peel the beets with a paring knife and trim the stem and root off. Set aside until all the beets are peeled.

2. Using a sharp knife and cutting board, thinly slice the beets.

3. Sterilize jars in the oven (washed and air dried in a 225 degrees F oven for 15 minutes) or boiled for 10 minutes; sterilize lids and jar bands in boiling water.

4. Add to each jar: two peeled garlic cloves and four whole cloves. Add beet slices and fill to the top with pickling liquid with a 1/4" headspace at the top. Secure lid and band to the jar.

5. Process jars in a hot water bath for 15 minutes. Remove jars from water and set onto wood racks or a wood cutting board. As the jars cool down, the lids should each make a loud "pop" noise as the pressure sucks in the lid and seals the jar. Let the jars stand at room temperature for 24 hours.

This batch made 5 pints.

Parisian Ham and Butter Sandwich

I had the Jambon Beurre sandwich at Le Panier at Pikes Place Market in Seattle and it was such a classically simple sandwich that I had to make it myself. As far as the cost of the ingredients, it was surprisingly low; even with Applewood smoked ham ($2.49 for fresh baked baguette, $4.49 for the preservative-free ham). I suppose I'll have to visit Paris, France some day to get the true sandwich baguette eating experience. Considering that I'll get a few sandwiches out of the baguette, the ingredients are well worth it at just under $8.


Ingredients

1 baguette
deli sliced ham
unsalted butter

Directions

Slice the baguette lengthwise and butter. Line one side with deli sliced ham (thin slices). I used two layers of ham. Replace top side of baguette and slice to desired lengths.

Enjoy.

Coconut Sorbet

This is a Cuisinart recipe and frankly, it doesn't have that much coconut flavor to it. Maybe I should have used coconut cream instead of coconut milk. It tastes like sweetened vanilla water that has been colored white. Even though the coconut milk was unsweetened, there is still too much sugar in the recipe. Next batch should cut the sugar down to 3/4 c.

Ingredients

1.5 c water
1 1/3 c granulated sugar
1 whole vanilla bean, halved then seeds scraped
pinch of salt
2 cans (13.5 oz each) unsweetened coconut milk

Directions

1. Combine water, sugar, vanilla bean pod and seeds and salt in a medium saucepan. Bring to just a boil then remove from heat. Let the ingredients steep for an hour and strain into a separate bowl. Add coconut milk. Stir. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

2. Process in Cuisinart (or similar) ice cream maker. Transfer sorbet to a container and freeze for at least two hours until firm.

Crockpot Pear Butter

This is the first attempt at making pear butter. A new crop of D'anjou pears were on sale at the grocery store so I bought enough to make six pints of fruit butter. For apples and pears, one pound of fruit typically yields one pint. I though this came out too sweet. Two cups of sugar is way too much if the fruit is ripe and sweet.

Ingredients

6 lbs ripe pears, cored and cubed
2 c sugar (need to cut to 1 1/2 c sugar, or less)
1 tsp grated orange zest
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
1 orange, juiced

Directions

1. Wash, core and cube pears. Mix with the rest of the ingredients. Place all ingredients in a crockpot. Set for 8 hours on LOW.

2. If storing butter for long-term use, process using sterilized jars in a hot water bath for 10 minutes.

Candied Citrus Peels

It seems that all you really need is a dry summer day. Laying the sugared peels on a rack then waiting 24 hours for the peels to dry is nonsense. I was able to make a batch of lime peels and a batch of orange peels in the same day. And, a batch of candied lemon peels the next day. Probably could have made it all in the same day if I had more drying space.

In terms of quantities, the peels of six limes filled an 8 oz jar; one medium mandarin orange filled 1/4 of an 8 oz jar, and two large lemons filled 1/2 an 8 oz jar.

Use a sharp edged (not serrated) vegetable peeler to remove the peel from the fruit. Thinly slice the peel into strips. The less pith (white stuff) that is on the peel, the more translucent the peel will become when it is boiled in the sugar syrup.

I used one batch of sugar syrup for all these fruits. I still have 10 oz of sugar syrup leftover.

Sugar Syrup

2 c organic granulated sugar
1 c water

Combine water and sugar in a small pot and bring to a boil. Stir until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from heat and set aside.

The Process

1. Peel the fruits and slice the peel into strips. Place the strips into a pot and fill with just enough water to cover. Bring to a boil and let boil for 10 minutes. Drain the water.

2. Place the boiled peels into the sugar syrup. Bring to a boil. With a candy thermometer, maintain the heat until the thermometer reads 230 degrees F (syrup stage). The peels should begin to turn translucent. This is best observed with lemon and orange peels. You'll have to make a judgement call when doing lime peels. Boil at 230 degrees F for at least 5 minutes.

3. Remove peels from the syrup using a fork or chopsticks. Lay in a single layer onto a Silpat mat or drying rack. I prefer using a silicone mat for easier removal of the sugared peels. This is just so that the peels cool down a bit.

4. Once the peels have cooled. Fill a shallow bowl with 1/2 c granulated sugar. Transfer peels to the sugar and stir until the peels are coated. Set aside. Every few hours, stir the peels around the sugar. When the moisture has sufficiently evaporated from the sugar-coated peels, remove the peels to a separate container.

I use a canning jar with its inner lid removed and use a square of a paper towel as the temporary lid; using the sealing band to keep the paper towel in place. This way the peels can still dry out and the jar can sit on the counter without bugs getting in.

Watermelon Granita

A warm summer in the Pacific Northwest is a great time to enjoy other recipes using watermelon. This recipe is mixed with lemonade for a refreshing summer cooler. I suppose you could also just eat it as an iced watermelon treat. If you're extra crafty, you can peel the limes with a vegetable peeler and reserve the lime peel to make candied citrus peels.

Makes 1 quart.

Ingredients

6 c seedless watermelon, cut into chunks
1/4 c lime juice (3 limes)
1/2 c organic granulated sugar

Directions

1. Wash and juice three limes. Strain out the pulp and set aside.

2. In the bowl of a 7-cup food prep, add sugar and lime juice. Then fill the bowl with watermelon chunks. Purée until smooth.

3. Pour into a 9" x 13" glass baking dish. Place dish in the freezer.

4. When frozen, use the tines of a fork to scrape the frozen purée into granita.

Scoop into tall glasses and fill with lemonade. Enjoy.

The only difference between this and watermelon sorbet, is that the latter has added water and is processed in an ice cream machine.

Salt and Pepper Squid

While this recipe is a keeper, the most time-consuming task of the recipe is cleaning the squid if you are using fresh squid. I don't know of any seafood counter at an Asian grocery store that cleans squid before packaging it for sale. This is the third recipe attempt from a collection of Fuchsia Dunlop cookbooks. This recipe comes from her book Every Grain of Rice, which won this year's James Beard award for international cookbooks. The photo of my dish doesn't even look remotely close to the pretty squid shapes in the photo of her book. It was tasty regardless.
Salt and Pepper Squid
This is a dish that you could order at a restaurant and not think twice about how long it takes to prepare it. Between cleaning the whole squids, slicing, then deep frying them, it took about an hour from start to finish. I doubt that starting with cleaned squid tubes would have helped all that much; besides those are usually sold frozen. Fresh squid just has a different taste and texture.

The cookbook has a vegetarian option for this recipe where instead of the squid, you use 14 oz of plain white tofu cut into bite-sized cubes then deep fried until golden.

Note: there is no black pepper nor white pepper in this recipe. The pepper here is Sichuan pepper, commonly referred to as Sichuan peppercorns. Also, two stalks of green onions were plenty for this dish. And, when deep frying the squid, watch out for the oil.. it will splatter and spit and crackle when moisture from the squid hits the hot oil.

Ingredients

1 lb squid, cleaned
1 tbsp Shaoxing wine
3 tbsp potato flour (for deep frying)
1 1/2 c neutral cooking oil, such as peanut oil
2 tbsp olive oil, for frying
2 tbsp fresh garlic, minced
2 tbsp spring onion whites, minced
2 tbsp spring onion greens, minced
1 fresh red chili, thinly sliced
1/4 tsp toasted Sichuan pepper mixed with 1/2 tsp kosher salt

Directions

1. Clean squid. You'll only be using the tentacles and the body. Trim the tentacles from the head, then slice in half lengthwise. Score the body using diagonal cuts with a knife.

2. Toss the squid body and tentacles in a bowl with Shaoxing rice wine. Let this marinate while you prep the other ingredients.

3. Drain the liquid from the squid and dredge in potato flour. Deep fry in a wok (or other appliance for deep frying) at 350 degrees F. Use a metal slotted spoon to remove the squid when it has reached a light golden brown color. Drain the oil from the squid on paper towels.

4. Drain off all but one tablespoon of oil from the wok. Add garlic, spring onion whites, and chili to the wok and stir fry over medium heat. Raise the heat to high and return the squid, Sichuan pepper, and salt to the wok. Stir and toss for a minute.

5. Add the spring onion greens last, mix well and serve.

Spicy Hot Eggplant

A madman checked out three of Fuchsia Dunlop's cookbooks from the library and suggested that we cook at least three recipes from them. This is the second of three recipes that looked doable and another attempt at authentic Chinese cuisine. This recipe comes from Dunlop's Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook which highlights the cuisine and cooking style of the Hunan province. Chili bean paste isn't in the pantry, so I mixed chili oil with black bean paste as a substitution. This came out tasting just okay. I'm not terribly inclined to make it again any time soon.
Spicy Eggplant with Pork
Ingredients

3 Asian eggplants, peeled and cut into bite-sized chunks
2 dried shitake mushrooms, rehydrated and finely chopped
3 oz ground pork
2 tbsp chili oil + 1 tbsp black bean paste
1 garlic clove, minced
2 tsp fresh ginger, minced
1 fresh red chili, finely sliced
2/3 c. stock or water
1/2 tsp dark soy sauce
2 scallions, green parts only, finely sliced
1 tsp sesame oil
olive oil for frying
kosher salt, to taste

Directions

1. Peel the eggplants then cut them in half lengthwise, then crosswise. Cut each quarter into chunks, sprinkle with salt and let drain for 30 minutes.

2. Squeeze the water from the mushrooms, then finely chop and set aside.

3. Rinse and pat dry the eggplant. Heat the oil for deep frying in a wok over high heat until it reach 350 degrees F and fry eggplant until they are tender. 

-or- Blanch the eggplant for a few minutes in salted boiling water until softened. Remove from heat or water and set aside.

4. Fry pork separately and add the chili bean paste. Stir fry until the oil is red.

5. Add the ginger, garlic, mushrooms, and chili paste. Stir in the stock, dark soy sauce, eggplant, and simmer for a few minutes over medium heat. Season to taste with salt.

6. Cook until the sauce is reduced. Add the scallions and stir fry until barely cooked.

7. Remove from heat, stir in sesame oil, and serve.

Sichanese Dan Dan Noodles

If it weren't for this cookbook, I would not have known to make the dish nor the sauce that goes with it. This recipe comes from Fuchsia Dunlop's Land of Plenty. Total prep time is about an hour, including noodle cooking time. This was one of the few times I went out of the way to procure a single recipe ingredient, in this case it was the tianjin preserved vegetable; which is a garlic and salt-preserved cabbage. If you can't find this little clay urn of intensely salty vegetable, you could probably substitute the more commonly used preserved turnip or preserved mustard greens instead.
Egg Noodles with Pork & Bok Choy, Sichuanese Flavors
More appalling was the fact that the Wel-pac brand was the only packaged noodle at the Asian grocery store that listed egg as an ingredient instead of yellow food coloring. Sichuanese food is nearly synonymous with hot and spicy. The spiciness of the dish comes from chili oil and toasted sichuan peppercorns.

Serves: 4

For the noodles:
1 pkg (3 bundles) egg noodles
8 bok choy heads, halved and leaves only

For the sauce:
2 tbsp tianjin preserved vegetable, or pickled Chinese cabbage
1 tbsp olive oil
3 spring onions, green parts only, finely chopped
3 tsp light soy sauce
2 tsp dark soy sauce
1 tbsp chili oil, to taste
2 tsp Chinese black vinegar
1 tsp ground toasted sichuan peppercorns
1 qt hot chicken stock

For the pork:
1 tbsp olive oil
3.5 oz ground pork
1 tsp Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
1 tsp light soy sauce

Directions

1. Rinse the Tianjin vegetable in a sieve under the tap to get rid of excess salt and shake dry. Heat the oil in a wok over a high heat,and stir-fry the Tianjin vegetable until it is dry. Set aside.

2. To prepare the pork topping, add the oil to the wok and heat through. Add the ground pork and stir-fry, splashing in the Shaoxing wine. Add the soy sauce and fry until the meat is cooked but not too dry. Set aside.

3. Divide the stir-fried preserved vegetable, the spring onions and the light and dark soy sauce, chili oil, vinegar, Sichuan pepper and stock among four serving bowls.

4. Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil. Add the bok choy and blanch until just cooked. Place a couple of leaves in each serving bowl. Meanwhile, add the noodles to the boiling water and boil until cooked to taste. Drain the noodles and divide among the prepared bowls. Top each serving with a spoonful of the cooked pork.

5. Serve immediately. The noodles should be mixed into the sauce at the table, using chopsticks.

Macadamia Nut Brittle, batch #2

I made a second batch of nut brittle on the same day because I didn't think there was enough of the first to use as a garnish for 16 servings of apricot sorbet. This recipe ratio comes from Kendrick & Atkinson's Candymaking cookbook. It has a much richer toffee flavor since it has a lot more fat in it from the butter and a minimal amount of corn syrup.
Macadamia Nut Brittle, batch #2
The recipe is really to make something called Cashew Crunch, which I had assumed at the time was just another brittle. For general eating purposes, this recipe wins it for taste and texture.

Ingredients

1 c. unsalted butter
2 tbsp water
2 tbsp light corn syrup
1 c. organic granulated sugar
1 c. salted macadamia nuts
1 tsp vanilla extract

Directions

1. In a heavy 2-quart saucepan with a candy thermometer, melt butter and stir in sugar and corn syrup. Bring to a boil.

2. At 300 degrees F, add nuts and vanilla extract. Pour out onto a Silpat mat or buttered, rimmed baking tray. Spread thin into a single layer. Let cool to room temperature. Break into pieces and enjoy.

Macadamia Nut Brittle, batch #1

Made a nut brittle for the first time that actually turned out really well. This was the first of two batches. I figured that this might not be enough to garnish 16 servings of apricot sorbet so I made a second batch. This recipe uses an equal amount of sugar to corn syrup. It has more of a candied brittle consistency than a toffee brittle.
2014-05-03, Macadamia Nut Brittle #1
This recipe ratio came from Lebovitz's The Perfect Scoop, a cookbook about making ice cream. Because this batch was turning brown faster than I anticipated, due to a higher fat content of the nuts, I took it off the stove when the candy thermometer was at 280 degrees F. I am not sure what the baking soda does for brittle. I forgot to add it, even though it was already measured out and in my mise en place.

Ingredients

1/2 c. light corn syrup
1/2 c. organic granulated sugar
2 tbsp water
1 1/2 c. salted macadamia nuts
1/2 tsp baking soda

Directions

1. In a 2-quart pot with a candy thermometer attached, add corn syrup, sugar, and water together. Bring to a boil, then add the nuts. Cook until the candy thermometer is between 300 degrees F and 305 degrees F.

2. Remove from heat and stir in baking soda. (I'm not sure what this does.)

3. Empty pot onto a Silpat mat or buttered, rimmed baking tray. Spread out the nuts into a single layer with a silicone spatula. As the brittle cools, it will harden.

4. Break into pieces and enjoy.