Basic Pasta Dough for Ravioli

This recipe ratio comes from the French Laundry cookbook. First time making ravioli, second attempt at making pasta from scratch. There are two parts to any noodle dish. The most important part, I've discovered is having a pasta dough that tastes good on its own. It's not too salty; it holds up well to being boiled, and when you eat it, the pasta says: eat more, eat more. The second part is packaging. No, not how the product starts out, but how it looks when it ends up on your plate.

For a pasta-making beginner, this dough didn't exactly come together like it does in all those YouTube videos about how to make pasta dough from scratch; but what I can tell you (and the cookbook says this, so it must be true) is that you cannot overknead the dough.

I hope you are in shape because kneading the pasta dough by hand is an upper body workout!

Ingredients

1 3/4 c (8 oz) all purpose flour
6 large egg yolks
1 large egg
1 1/2 tsp olive oil
1 tbsp milk

Directions

Mound the flour in the center of a Silpat mat or large cutting board. Make a well in the center large enough to accommodate the wet ingredients (milk, egg yolks, whole egg, and olive oil). Pour wet ingredients into the well.

Mixing. Using your fingers, break the eggs up and turn the flour in a circular motion (same direction, don't go all changing direction when incorporating the wet ingredients into the flour). Supposedly this circular motion helps to incorporate the flour into the eggs otherwise it'll be all lumpy. Eventually the mixture will get too tight to keep turning with your fingers.

At this stage, I thought I had more of the ingredients stuck to my hands than what was on the board. My hands looked as though I'd been sparring with the Pillsbury dough boy. Alas, I think this is normal. 

Kneading.  Knead the dough by pressing it in a forward motion with the heels of your hands. Do this several times until the dough doesn't feel sticky. Let the dough rest for a few minutes. Form the dough into a ball and knead it again until the dough becomes silky smooth. What was interesting that the more I kneaded the dough, the more it came off my hands and by the time I felt like I was done kneading, most of it was off my hands. 

I'm not sure that the dough ever got to the silky smooth stage from kneading; but after I let it rest in a closed plastic food storage container, the dough was smooth and pliable.

The cookbook suggests that kneading can take anywhere from 10 to 15 minutes. This might be true if you were a seasoned bread maker with massive forearms. I think this step took me longer.

Resting. You could wrap the dough in plastic wrap, but a sealable airtight plastic container will suffice.

Let the dough rest for 30 minutes to an hour before making it into something else, like noodles or ravioli.

Making. This batch of dough made 40 ravioli dumplings, though I'm sure more could have been made if I didn't waste so much figuring out the hand-cranked pasta machine. The cookbook says to take this ball of dough and cut it into thirds, then each third (roughly 5 oz each by weight) should be cut in half. The amount of dough that should be fed through the pasta machine is 2.5 oz. I used a digital kitchen scale to measure out the dough.

I ran the dough through the pasta machine starting from the largest width setting (7) to the second smallest (2). I found that the smallest setting on that machine makes a paper-thin, translucent sheet of pasta; maybe this is how filo dough is made. Run the pasta through the machine 2-3 times per knob setting, gradually making it thinner.

Most pasta recipes will tell you to fold it and turn it a quarter. I watched a YouTube video on this because I had no conceptual idea what the cookbook was talking about. I used an egg wash (1 egg yolk + water) with a pastry brush on one side of the ravioli and pressed the two sheets of pasta dough together after putting in the filling. That method worked well for sealing it.

Dumplings for Chicken Fricasse

This ingredient ratio was adapted from the Pacific Northwest the Beautiful cookbook and was used in a chicken fricassee recipe of the same book. When the stew is done, eat the dumplings first. Imagine hot and steamy bread-based dumplings drenched in a hearty chicken stew and that's what it tastes like. The dumplings are not as good through multiple reheatings and become rather dense. They are pretty much as good as they're going to get when made fresh the first day. There usually isn't as much stew liquid leftover to accommodate more dumplings.
Chicken Fricassee (imagine fried then braised chicken,
served up in its own broth)

Ingredients

2 c unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tbsp fresh sage, minced
2 sprigs of fresh thyme, leaves, coarsely chopped
1 tbsp baking powder
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp celery seed
1/2 c buttermilk
1/2 c half n half

additional water, optional if the batter is too dry

Directions

1. In a large bowl, whisk all the dry ingredients together. Add milks and stir gently to combine.

2. Drop by rounded tablespoons into simmering broth. Cook for 15-20 min, until puffy and dumplings float to the top.
The finished dumplings after cooking in the broth.
I removed them from the pot so that they could
be evenly distributed in bowls.

Green Tea Pound Cake

This recipe comes from the book Perfect Cakes by Chef Nick Malgieri. I made a few adjustments to the recipe, not much, but don't go broke buying matcha green tea powder when you can make it yourself using ordinary loose leaf green tea. Because I didn't use the bright green-colored matcha tea powder and used unbleached all-purpose flour, the cake itself had a green tea flavor and had a muddy-green color when I took it out of the oven. I also overfilled the loaf pan (the cake does rise by double its volume) and baked the cake for 15 minutes longer that what the original recipe calls for.

You don't need to buy the expensive matcha green tea powder for this recipe. If you have an electric coffee grinder, you can certainly make your own with any type of dried green tea. I used a combination of good quality green tea bags plus some Longjing loose leaf tea. The green tea powder that anyone can make is called konacha, or "powder tea". Since this is for a bread-based dessert, you don't need to get the green tea as finely milled as you can with a coffee grinder, as you might with a mochi or green tea ice cream recipe.

Makes 1 loaf (9" x 5" x 3")

Ingredients

2 c unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tbsp green tea powder
2 tsp baking powder
2 sticks unsalted butter, diced
1 1/2 c powdered sugar
5 large eggs, separated
a pinch of salt

Directions

Preheat oven to 325 degrees F.  Butter and line a 9" x 5" x 3" loaf pan with parchment paper.

1. Separate the eggs into yolks and whites. A small bowl for the yolks, and  a 5-qt mixing bowl for the whites.

2. In a large bowl, sift together flour, tea powder, baking powder, and powdered sugar. Cut in butter with a pastry blender (or toss in all these ingredients in step 1 into a food processor and pulse until crumbs form). Gently fold in one egg yolk at a time with a rubber spatula.

3. Add the pinch of salt to the egg whites and beat with a balloon whisk (or use an electric mixer with a balloon whisk attachment) until medium peaks form. When you lift the whisk out of the eggs, the foam should mostly hold its shape and be white and opaque in color.

4. Gently fold the egg whites into the flour mixture until no white streaks remain.

5. Fill a prepared loaf pan with the batter half way, the cake will rise and double in volume. Bake for 50 minutes, or until a skewer comes out clean. Let it cool for 10 minutes in the pan on a rack before slicing.

Basic Yaki Udon

It could very well be that I misread the instructions on the noodle package, but I was complimented that these noodles tasted very good with how I prepared them. For the most part, yaki udon (also, yakiudon) is a Japanese-origin noodle dish which came about after the mid-1940s. At it's core, it's a noodle dish served with a special sauce (equal parts of oil and soy sauce), a meat, and vegetables. At restaurants it is typically served with cabbage, carrots, and scallions; along with a serving of cooked chicken, beef, pork, or shrimp.

If you cook the entire package of noodles, it will feed 3-4 people; so adjust the protein measurements according to how many people you are serving these noodles to.

The ingredients:

1 (9.5 oz) pkg of organic udon noodles
2-4 oz cooked protein per serving (e.g., sliced braised beef, pork, chicken, shrimp, tofu, etc)

The sauce:

4 green onions (scallions), thinly sliced
2 tbsp reduced sodium soy sauce
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp sesame oil

Directions:

1. Cook the noodles according to the package instructions; for me that means adding the noodles to a pot of boiling water (unsalted) and letting them cook to a rolling boil (foamy). Drain the noodles and rinse briefly under cold water, but don't cool the noodles down entirely.

2. In a separate large pot, heat green onions, soy sauce, olive oil and sesame oil on low-medium heat; just enough so that the oils mingle together. Add the noodles to this pot and stir with a large wooden, plastic, or rubber spatula until all the flavors are combined and the noodles are coated with the sauce. Transfer noodles to a single serving bowl or to individual bowls.

Enjoy.

(Dungeness) Crab and Corn Chowder

You can use any type of crab for this chowder, except for shore crabs. I used Dungeness crab since it's available locally and is still in season. It certainly tastes awesome with the bread I made yesterday. No idea on how heavy the crab was prior to being shelled, but it yielded 1.5 cups of cooked crab meat.

Here's a breakdown of what it costs to make this chowder from scratch:

1 Dungeness crab, cooked (roughly $8 per whole crab, about a pound)
2 white potatoes, $0.50
2 c chicken broth (1/2 quart), $1.00
2 green onion stalks (assuming 8 stalks per bunch and $0.50/bunch), $0.16
1/4 c flour (10# flour at $4), $0.02
2 tbsp unsalted butter (at $3/lb), $0.38
3 organic celery stalks (your yield may vary, this is based on a $2 bag), $0.30
salt, black pepper, and various spices, $0.25
One 16 oz bag of cut sweet corn, $1.69
2 c (16 oz) of organic half 'n' half, $2

Yield: 2 quarts (8 one-cup servings)
Total: $14.30
Cost per cup: $1.79

When ingredient sourcing, food prep, and cook time is factored into the cost, that $5 bowl of chowder you get at the restaurant is actually a pretty good deal.