Review: Fong Chong Restaurant (Portland OR)

Today I was in downtown Portland near the Chinatown area for a work meeting with our ad agency. Not wanting to be stuck in worse-than-Los Angeles traffic for the ride home, I walked about in sweltering heat (like an average summer day in LA) for a few blocks in each direction from where my car was parked and picked a random a restaurant to eat at. I don't know much about Hongkong styled cuisine, but I've eaten my fair share of dim sum. The sign outside read: Hong Kong dim sum. Who could resist? Besides, a nice Indian-ish-looking couple came out of the restaurant and spontaneously pitched the restaurant to me. I guess the locals really like the place. This particular local said that he lived in HK for a few years and this place serves up authentic-tasting HK cuisine, but (he adds) that some of the beef has an off-flavor to it. Maybe 6pm was too early for dinner, especially when it was still about 100 degrees F outside. The restaurant was sparsely populated, and by that, I mean to say I was the only patron at the time. The menu reads "Fong Chong Tea House", but given the very limited varieties of tea on the menu, I think they dropped that aspect of the business. Besides, this entire metro area is about 95% caucasian. The food: If the restaurant really does serve dim sum all day, I didn't really see any while I was there. A cart that had some leftover desserts from the lunch hour sat quietly by itself near the front counter. I could see egg tarts and sesame balls on small rounded plates; but given how hot it was today. Eating deep fried or baked egg desserts that have been sitting out all afternoon.. not such a good idea. My order's portion size was good and perhaps too much for one person to eat in one sitting. I had the beef in garlic sauce. It came with a scoop of what tried to pass itself off as fried rice, BBQ pork that should have been reconstituted in a broth, a crab puff (might have been the chef's invention), and a slathering of overly sweet and spicy brown sauce with mixed vegetables. Overall, the dish was way too sweet, though probably just right for the American palate.

In my food..

• Meat - the beef was very tender and tasty, as it should be; the BBQ pork should not have been added to the dish at all and it was dry, hard, flavorless and chewy
• Sauce - typical brown sauce with soy sauce, chili sauce, corn starch, garlic, sugar
• Vegetables - green bell peppers, celery, bamboo, carrots, white onion, snow pea, white mushroom, mu erh (wood ear fungus), and zucchini (which, unfortunately was very bitter)
• Rice - had bits of egg in it, tasted entirely wrong, and someone probably stir fried it up with soy sauce several hours ago. It had the taste of salted egg coated rice. Bleh. Nobody eats salted egg in anything except in rice porridge.
• Crab puff - It's a wonton wrapper stuffed with "crab" meat and deep fried. It's an appetizer, but not terribly appetizing.
• Egg roll - who knows what's in it. I didn't touch it.

The tea: Ordinary black tea, and not a particularly quality one either. Generic. Maybe a Lipton black tea or something. I didn't get a choice about the tea, but I also wasn't charged for it either unlike other Chinese restaurants in the Portland area. Service: Only one host for the evening, which might have been fine if there had only been a few customers, but by 6:30pm several more sets of people wandered in and it took a while for me to even get my bill. The host speaks at least three languages that I could tell...Cantonese (to the kitchen staff), Mandarin to the family of six sitting to my right, and somewhat decent English to the rest of us. Surroundings: Decent. It looks like this place would have no problem accommodating the needs of a large banquet, as it could seat about 300 people in its main galley area. There might be private rooms at the back, but I wasn't feeling too adventurous at the time. Among the evening's patrons were asians, besides myself. That's at least a sign of decent food that another Chinese person would eat. That's also not saying much because there aren't a lot of restaurants to choose from, not in Old Town. Overall: I'd say, for dim sum, it might be passable to the locals who live on the west side / downtown Portland. From looking at the menu and eating here for dinner, I still cannot fathom what it really means to have Hong Kong sytled food. For eating lunch or dinner from the specials menu, I'd say skip it and go eat elsewhere. The place: Fong Chong Restaurant 301 NW 4th Ave, Portland OR 97209 (503) 228-6868